Happy New Year, everyone! It's looking normal again out there--who'd think that we'd be happy to have the rain back in Seattle? Our cooking has turned from decadent holiday dishes to homey classics--tonight Nigel Slater's bangers & mash recipe should help us use up some of the butterballs we have lying around, & I've taken Uli's sausage out to thaw. January's a good time to work your way through the freezer, don't you think? It reminds me of all the food adventures we embarked on the year before... The only problem is, when did I make that chanterelle risotto? And how old are those pierogi's?
Queso y Vino's Mediterranean Getaway at Olivar
806 E. Roy Street (in Capitol Hill)
Thursday, January 29th at 6:30 pm
$55 a person, including wine (plus tax & gratuity)
Hope to see you there...
Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com
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I love supporting our local farmers, & our freezer is fully loaded with organic meats that I have picked up on our various gourmet road trips. One Saturday after hitting the Olympia Farmer's Market, we decided to finally visit the Meat Shop of Tacoma, the oldest certified organic meat shop in Washington, which I'd always heard murmurings about. Turns out the Meat Shop is not in the city of Tacoma really, but out in farm country, hidden behind a trailer home. It's a teensy mom & pop place, and at first we were a little afraid to go in after seeing a guy in a bloody rubber apron dump a bucket of something out the back door & started to hear the "Deliverance" banjo's in our heads... But the gal inside made us feel welcome, & soon we were loading up on tasty thick bacon & pork chops. This recipe from the gorgeous new Chanterelle cookbook looks like a reason to thaw out some pig!
Serves 4
1/4 cup peeled & coarsely chopped fresh ginger
2 cups Sauternes or Muscat
2 cups chicken stock
Four 10-oz bone-in center-cut pork chops, trimmed of fat
Kosher salt
Black pepper from a mill
1/4 cup canola or other neutral oil
1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 Tbs grainy mustard
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter
Put the ginger & the Sauternes in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, & reduce, swirling, until it becomes caramelized & syrupy, about 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl & discard the ginger. Return the reduction to the pan & pour in the stock. Bring to a boil & reduce the sauce to 1 cup, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat. (The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 24 hours.)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed, ovenproof saute pan over high heat until very hot. Season the pork chops generously with salt & pepper. Pour the oil into the hot pan, let it get hot, & add the chops. Brown the meat well, about 4 minutes per side. Drain & discard the oil, then place the pan to the oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the chops to a plate or platter & keep covered & warm while you finish the sauce.
Use a paper towel to carefully wipe any excess oil out of the saute pan. Return the pan to high heat, pour in the Sauternes reduction & bring to a boil. Add the lemon juice & mustard, then whisk in the butter, 1 Tbs at a time.
Put a chop on each of the 4 dinner plates & divide the sauce evenly among the servings, covering the chops. Serve immediately.
THIS WEEK'S QUESO Y VINO WINE PICKS
Queso y Vino, your mobile wine shop complete with a traveling expert Iberian sommelier (that's me!) is at your service. Hope you jump on the board to sample these tasty cellar selections & affordable wines... Personally selected "Omakase" cases built around your palate, desires, & budget are my specialty. Check out the growing selection of wines available that are listed on my blog, & special requests are always welcome. Just ask & I'll be your vino bloodhound, sniffing out your favorite bottles!
I offer a 10% discount on whole or mixed cases, free delivery for orders over $150, smaller orders will be conveniently & gladly delivered to you for the nominal fee of $10. Ask me if you'd like to arrange a free pick up at the Saturday University Farmer's Market or Sunday at the Ballard Farmer's Market or the West Seattle Farmer's Market.
Bodegas Aragonesas Coto de Hayas Tinto 2006, Campo de Borja $8.99
I often write about all the great values to be found in Grenache from Spain, & Coto de Hayas is no exception. What this cooperative has done differently is to experiment with planting new varietals in their rocky high-elevation vineyards, so not only do you get to taste 40+ year-old Garnacha, but also 25+ year-old Tempranillo, & 10-year-old Syrah and Cabernet. The result is a richly-colored fantastically-fruited quaffer from the "preserve of the beech trees". Enjoy a burst of cassis & cherry pits, finely-grained tannins, & a brioche finish in this tinto... My co-taster piped up, "Nice mouthfeel!" I noted that I thought this would make an outstanding pizza wine, & lo & behold, I found out Wine Spectator voted Coto one of their 2008 recommended "Value Reds to Serve with Pizza". Hey, I guess we're on the same wavelength! I'll take a sausage, mushroom, & black olive slice to go, please...
Bodega Elvira Calle Alberti 154 Cabernet, Mendoza $8.99
Elvira was my grandmother's name, so this wine has some sentimental value to me, but there's plenty of reasons why you're going to get your money's worth with this new Cab. The winery is named after a famous philanthropist, & "Alberti 154" turns out to be the street address for this off-the-beaten path producer. Alberti comes straight from the acclaimed Lujan de Cuyo region of Argentina where granite stone-covered soils radiate warmth in the evenings, ripening the grapes, & providing full-bodied flavors for this small-lot wine studio. I was taken with the aroma of melted caramel & savory black currants, & the rich cherry core. Nutmeg, & other exotic spices grace this bold wine which should help keep you warm through the winter. Pop this open for the family the next time you're making a Sunday Italian feast with sausage, meatballs & braciole!
Quinta Sa de Baixo Palestra Vinho Tinto 2006, Douro $8.99
For those of you who have been enjoying the Berco de Infante, here is the next under $10 Portuguese red to try! From the same folks who make the fantastic Grilos from the Dao, Palestra weighs in at a lovely 13% alcohol, but is jam-packed with juicy goodness. This exudes a rich black cherry perfume, next comes a wave of acidity that suddenly made me think "Sangiovese?"--this is food-friendly wine, folks. Solid all around, there's a Mediterranean vibe going on, with tart pomegranate juice, brandied-candied cherries, Mexican vanilla, licorice, eucalyptus, & plum cobbler. My notes just kept coming! Fluid, with a dusting of spices, this versatile vinho will be a hit on your table, not on your wallet.
La Veli Passamente Rosso 2005, Salente $10.99
A few blizzardy weeks ago, my husband & I were anxious to celebrate the arrival of the new (& only) pizza place in our neighborhood, Pizzeria Pulcinella, so much so that we chained up & headed out into the snow trying like heck to avoid all the crazy hills. After taking the long route to get there, we stomped off our boots at the doorway, but much to our chagrin found out that they were hosting a private party & weren't open for business yet. Rats! So we mukluked-it back to the truck & headed for another south-end Italian restaurant whose name I won't mention because it was honestly the worst Italian meal either of us had ever eaten. The only redeeming factor was discovering this wine!!! It actually restored our smiles & weary spirits, & we corked half of it up just so we could enjoy it at home in front of the fireplace.
Li Veli is situated in Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot, which is also the largest wine-producing region in the country. But in recent years, the focus has begun to shift from quantity to quality, & northern producers have begun to buy up this southern real estate. And that's just what happened at Li Veli. Tuscan giant Aviognesi (who make de-licious Montepulciano's) bought the Masseria in 1999, & brought new life to the dream of its original founder, a famous Italian architect who wanted Li Veli to be a model winery for all of Italy. Their Passamente is 100% Negroamaro (meaning "dark, dark") aged 6 months in barrel & it is a silky smooth concoction. Musky notes on the nose make this a match for succulent meat dishes or mushrooms, then there's a bit of cherry coke, dark lush plums, & a grove of eucalyptus. We do a lot of Italian cooking at home, so I sure am glad to have a stash of this now to remind us of our adventures in the snow!
Paul Anheuser Kreuznacher Monchberg Scheurebe 2007, Nahe $11.99
Well, you certainly know from the name of this one that's it's not from Iberia! This lovely little number came home in Ken's sample bag, & I found it so refreshing that I had to share this find with you! My husband is a Riesling pack rat--I think we have more of it in our cellar than anything else--and I am usually partial to top-of-the-line bottlings, like Cuvee St. Catherine of course, but Paul Anheuser has created a bargain that goes wonderfully with all the Asian dishes that Ken whips up. The Anheuser family has been in the business of winemaking since the the 1600's, & one of the family immigrated to St. Louis where he started a little brewery known as Anheuser-Busch. The rest of the family stayed in the wine biz, helping to pioneer the Nahe region, & Paul is now the 13th generation at their estate.
2007 was a benchmark year in perfection for Germany, & flowering was completed one full month ahead of what's normal. The Nahe Valley is a Riesling lover's "insider's secret"--the land of meandering rivers, forests, & a turbulent geological history that provides incredible minerality in the wines. Slightly off-dry, this white has glacier & quartzite tones in spades, with soft white nectarines, fresh quince & hints of allspice. Use a little to make Vikram Vij's Marinated Lamb Popsicles with Fenugreek Cream Curry & chill the rest for a perfect pairing!
Copyright 2008, Queso y Vino
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