Nothing whets my appetite for home cooking more than colorful ceramics & open air mercados... About an hour's bus ride away from our base lies neighboring town, Dolores Hidalgo, renowned for their ceramic production in all the brilliant colors of the town of San Miguel. Through Vacation Rentals by Owner, I found us an apartment for rent above a gorgeously restored hacienda complete with kitchen & maid service for a mere $50 a night & hoped for the best, only to find an ideal hideaway tucked up amongst the jaw-dropping homes in the hills.
Los Golondrinas, the swallows, fast became our nest, recovering from altitude fatigue & grueling climbs (at least initially) back up, up & up for an afternoon siesta like a couple of burros laden down with grocery packs.
This is our street, our home, our resting place for a glass of wine or una cerveza, an hour's nap--god bless the siesta! Many businesses traditionally close in the heat of the afternoon & since bare knees are a big taboo we were glad to strip down & put on shorts & flip flops the moment we got home & melt into a comfortable chair with a cool drink. If I could change anything about my world, it would be to have two days off with with husband & an hour lunch, so I didn't have to scarf down a barely palatable Lean Cuisine at my desk & dash through crowds of manatee-speed tourists at the market to do my shopping...
But Mexico made me slow down--the first day we walked out to the edge of town & I thought what are we going to do in this place? On the last, I wondered how we could leave as there were hot springs yet to explore & unlimited tortas combinations left to enjoy... More on the food to come!
Ken's stomach is unsettled tonight--too much Mexican food? I can't seem to get enough, hitting up Lupe's for lunch (Renton's newest taco truck) in the parking lot of Marilyn's Produce where avocados, chiles of all kind, cilantro & lettuce come close to Mexico prices..
Casita de las Golondrinas (two other apartments are available on the estate--also check out vrbo.com's large list of Guanjuato listings if you like to cook & want to skip the B&B experience)
San Miguel de Allende, MX 773.326.2236 (US reservation line) $400 per week!