Madeleine

Queso y Vino Feb 4th Enews: Turkish Pizza & Save the Date for Art of the Table!

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Oh the glorious return of the sun & wine events has given me a much-needed excuse to get out of the house & commune with the rest of the world. Last week I was able to enjoy tapas at Taberna del Alabardero twice (thanks Jaime!), first for some lunch, then for an impressive tasting with Florencia Navarro & his good-humored crew of Spanish winemakers. There's nothing like a Friday afternoon with over 50 wines to try!

The dinner at Olivar was a huge success & we had so much fun that Philippe and I have already been talking about when to plan the next one. Before the party got started, Ken & I sat down and tried some of the excellent specials off the chalkboard menu and I have to say that the grilled wild garlic with romanesco is out of this world!!! Easily worth a trip across town, this seasonal dish is not to be missed--the Loveless Building seems to have finally found the perfect fit.

So you've been asking & here it is, drumroll please. The next Queso y Vino wine dinner will be at... Art of the Table! I had a blast working with Dustin & make sure you check out the photo album on the left so you can get a feel for AotT's cuisine and ambience. Folks who went to our December dinner said that it felt like I had found the perfect fit for my events--I guess Dustin & I both operate on the same wavelength (only he's cooler because he has a gong). This time we're going free-style--we'll taste Dustin on our favorite new wines from around the globe & he will create one of his famous seasonal menus around the flavors. His spot is teensy, so make sure to get your seats reserved ASAP!

Queso y Vino's Sunday Wine Supper at Art of the Table
1054 N. 39th Street, Seattle between Wallingford & Fremont
Sunday, February 22nd @ 6 pm (dinner starts at 6:30 pm)
$65 per person including a flight of six specially-paired wines (plus tax & gratuity)

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- Subscribe to the Q.y.V newsletter--it's fun, taste-inspiring, & free!!!
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HALOUMI, CREME FRAICHE & SPINACH PIZZAS from Turquoise by Greg & Lucy Halouf
I was wondering when it was going to happen... Last week I was called out by "Tofu Boy" who more or less said, "Hey, enough with the chorizo! What about something I an cook?" Okay, okay, T.B... For February I will try pick more vegetarian (I used to be one myself), pescetarian, & poullettarian recipes. I've been itching to try out this recipe anyway & already have a tub of creme fraiche in the fridge. Now where the heck in Renton am I going to find halloumi?

Makes 10

1 1/4 pounds spinach leaves, washed
1 shallot, finely diced
1 small clove garlic, finely diced
finely grated zest of 1/3 lemon
1/2 tsp dried mint
1/3 lb haloumi, washed & finely grated
1/4 cup creme fraiche
sea salt
freshly ground white pepper
1 quantity Turkish Pizza Dough (see below)
olive oil

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil & blanch the spinach leaves in batches. Refresh in cold water, then squeeze firmly to extract as much liquid as you can.

Place the spinach on a large chopping board & put the shallot, garlic, zest, & mint on top. Use a very large knife to chop & mix everything together as fine as you can get until well combined. Put the spinach mixture into a large bowl & stir in the haloumi & creme fraiche. Season with salt & pepper.

Preheat the oven to 425 F. Knock back the dough, then put it onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 10 portions. Roll each portion into a round, 6 inches in diameter. Brush lightly with oil & spread with the spinach topping. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes (a convection oven may take as little as 4 to 5 minutes) & serve piping hot.

Turkish pizza dough:
1 Tbs dried yeast
3/4 tsp sugar
2 Tbs warm water
5 oz Greek-style yogurt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
10 oz bread flour
1/2 sea salt
olive oil

Dissolve the yeast & sugar in warm water & set aside in a warm place for about 10 minutes until frothy. In another small bowl, whisk the yogurt & extra-virgin olive oil.

Sift the flour & salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the center & add the yeast & yogurt mixtures. Use your fingers to work in the flour & form a smooth ball. Transfer to an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook & kneed on a low speed for 10-15 minutes until very smooth & shiny. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, then cover with a damp tea towel & leave to rest at room temperature for 2 hours or until doubled in size.

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Castel del Remei Gotim Bru 2005, Costers del Segre $13.99

An annual customer favorite, it's not hard to see why this landed in the top three!
We opened a bottle of this recently & I thought to myself, "Who wouldn't like this wine?" Pleasurable and with great character, this offers something for everyone. From one of Spain's oldest family-owned wineries, Gotim Bru is a classic Catalan combo of Tempranillo, Cab, Merlot & Grenache. Castel de Remei deftly blends the four varietals resulting in great dusted minerality, relaxed tannins, star anise spice, with friendly plum/cherry fruit, and a toasted caramel finish. It's unbelievable to me that this wine has stayed the same price. Good all on its own or with Mediterranean meals such as a saffron-spiked bouillabaisse.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED HOUSE WINES!

Vina Ijalba Almagre Tinto 2006, Rioja $8.99
What a refreshing change of pace... We're seeing a lot of homogenized Spanish wines these days with that "Mondo Vino" taste, so this was a welcomed find in the bargain category. Vina Ijalba's bodega in Logroño turned to organic farming in 2000 which is another reason to celebrate! Translucent plum hue with tasty aromas of dried black cherries & cocoa beans, Almagre has old world charm in spades. Nice acidity, savory plums, with meaty/toasty notes from six months in oak all make this a bang-up wine for the money, plus low tannins make this one of the most versatile Rioja values out there. French Pinot lover's take note & give this a try for a change of pace.

Bodegas Alto Almanzora Este 2006, Almeria $9.99

New vintage! If you love chocolate, berries, & Andalucia then this is the wine for you... I call this the "kitchen sink wine" as it's a sampling of Grenache, Cab, Syrah & other varietals anchored by old-vine Monastrell, all from the coast between Granada & Almeria. The mountains here were home to the first people of Andalucia, & the winery chose an ancient drawing of a fertile mare to symbolize their wine, as that image was believed to bless the fields for centuries. The garnet hue might lead you to think of Tempranillo's taste, but this is all berry-licious strawberry freezer jam and earthy, ashy, spiced marionberries on your tongue. It's rare to find reds from Andalucia, but this makes me hopeful we'll start seeing more!
-90 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Burgans Albarino 2007, Rias Baixas $12.99
Back in stock with a fresh new vintage!
Albarino's are increasingly difficult to find in this price range, & Burgans is here to save the day. Every bit as bright & minerally as the more expensive Albarino's out there, with the fruit of tangerines & fuzzy nectarines. Wines from Rias Baixas have a touch of the ocean in them, like sea salt & a crispness that makes you feels like a day at the beach with a refreshing breeze. Clean as a whistle, this is an incredibly food-friendly wine, or a great all-around sipper. This is our house go-to wine for any kind of seafood, spicy meals--we even served it at our wedding!

ONE FOR YOUR VALENTINE!

Valdespino El Candado Pedro Ximinez Sherry, Jerez $22.99 375 ml
Well, I stand corrected. For those of you that attended the Olivar dinner, this luscious dessert wine *is* from Jerez which is why it says sherry on the label! But I can almost guarantee you that the grapes came from Montilla-Moriles which is where almost all of the Pedro Ximinez from Spain hails from. But let's talk about how this wine tastes, shall we? This might be my favorite PX on the market, & I gave this four stars. This is sinfully delicious but not sappy sweet in the least. Flavors of liquid raisins, gingerbread, molasses, figs and dates are wrapped in a bow of creamy captivating mouthfeel. Candado means "padlock" in Spanish, & each bottle comes with an actual little padlock & key on the cap... Muy Dulce! Trust me, this is the key to unlocking your sweetheart's sweet tooth & El Candado looooves chocolate.

February 11, 2009 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Jan 28th Enews: Sweets for the Sweet, Cheese Gossip, & Gypsy Garbanzos

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Aren't you loving having a little more daylight time in your day? For me, this week has been all about a chance to breathe in fresh air, celebrate hearing some positive news, & watch a romantic (not catastrophic) amount of snowflakes gather in our flowerpots outside. While making deliveries & walking around the local farmer's markets this weekend I was struck by a sense of nostalgia...

You see, my mother had her own small business, and on the weekends my mom & I traveled throughout upstate New York, setting up our tent & table, hawking holiday crafts & listening to bluegrass bands. From a very early age I grew to love cider doughnuts and the satisfaction of selling something that came from the heart--it makes perfect sense that I ended up doing what I do now! Thanks mom for pointing me in the right direction. (But I will say that craft shows move indoors during the winter, & I give it up to all the farmers and artisans who are out there in their long underwear making sure we can get a dose of fresh greens and hand-crafted cheese.)

Speaking of cheese, on the food front I just heard the most amazing news--Artisinal is coming to Bellevue!!!! Pinch me, am I dreaming? We weren't able to squeeze in a trip to Artisinal Bistro on our last trip to NYC, but I peered longingly into the windows wishing you could eat 8 meals a day when you're in the city. There will be 300 seats at the new Bellevue location, so I bet we'll be seeing you there when it opens! And last week at tiny Frank's Oyster House & Champagne Parlor I discovered my new favorite small bite--goat cheese deviled eggs. Oh, man! Frank's just opened & has plenty of kinks to work out with service & such, but at $4 for 3 of these addictive morsels of ingenuity, I can forgive some growing pains. What's your favorite affordable indulgence?

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- Subscribe to the Q.y.V newsletter--it's fun, taste-inspiring, & free!!!
More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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CHICKPEA STEW WITH CHORIZO & MEATBALLS from The New Spanish Table by Anya von Bremzen
...these are a few of my favorite things! I know more than a few people who swear by this cookbook, & I can personally attest that this recipe is something that makes us gleeful, especially during sweater-wearing months. I do diverge from the directions a bit, though, so here's my kitchen tips--
*I don't boil the chorizo before adding it, as there's actually not a lot of fat in this recipe despite its name, so why would "drain it" & lose that wonderful flavor?
*And why stew the chorizo whole & slice it later? I guess this might make more sense if you were using a soft sausage, but my preference is always for true dry-cured Spanish chorizo.

Serves 4 or 5

For the chickpeas:
1 cup dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans), soaked overnight or quick-soaked
1 bay leaf
6 oz sweet Spanish-style chorizo sausage

For the meatballs:
2 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed
10 oz ground pork, not too lean
1/4 cup grated onion
1 small egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil

For finishing the stew:
2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
1 medium-size carrot, finely diced
4 medium-size garlic cloves, minced
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp smoked sweet Spanish paprika
3 Tbs finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt (kosher or sea)

Prepare the chickpeas: Place the chickpeas in a heavy 4- to 5-quart pot, add cold water to cover by 2 inches, & bring to a boil over high heat. Add the bay leaf, reduce the heat to low, & simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour, periodically replenishing the liquid with more water.

After 1 hour, cook the chorizo in boiling water for 2 minutes to drain it. Add the chorizo to the chickpeas & continue cooking until the chickpeas are tender but still a little al dente, about 30 minutes longer, adding more water to maintain the level of liquid.

While the chickpeas are cooking, make the meatballs: Place the bread in a small bowl, add cold water to cover & let soak for 5 minutes. Drain & squeeze out the excess liquid, then finely crumble the bread. Place the bread, pork, onion, egg, salt, & pepper in a bowl. Gently kneed the meatball mixture with your hands just until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. If the mixture is too moist to form the meatballs, refrigerate it for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 425 F. With oiled hands, shape the mixture into meatballs the size of a cherry tomato. Arrange the meatballs on a baking sheet & bake, shaking the pan once or twice, until they are lightly browned and firm to the touch, about 12 minutes. Set aside until ready to use.

To finish the stew: Heat the olive oil in a medium-size skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, & half of the garlic & cook until soft, but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the paprika, stir for a few seconds, then stir the tomato mixture into the chickpeas. Cook the stew until the chickpeas are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chorizo to a cutting board. Cut into 1/2 inch slices & return them to the pot. Gently stir in the meatballs & simmer them in the stew for about 5 minutes.

Place the remaining garlic, parsley, & a pinch of salt in a mortar and, using a pestle, crush them to a paste. Stir the parsley mixture into the stew & let it cook until all the flavors meld, about 5 minutes. Let the stew cool for about 5 minutes, then ladle into bowls & serve.

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Bodegas Borsao Viña Borgia 2007, Campo de Borja $6.99

I'm convinced that everything Bodegas Borsao touches turns to gold... With smart & sexy labels, super-solid juice, & rock bottom prices, Borsao is one of the leading examples of why Spanish wine is simply hard to beat in this price range. Vina Borgia is unoaked & carefree Grenache, with seductive Asian spice fragrances, berries galore, and it easily galavants from bottle to glass. I am in full agreement with the International Wine Cellar which penned, "To call this a bargain would be a severe understatement."

Quinta do Correio Branco 2007, Dao $8.99
Portuguese wines are fascinating, don't you think? I mean where else on earth are you going to find a blend of Malvasia Fina, Sercial, Bical, & Encruzado??? The name of the wine means, "farm of the post office", hence the clever postage stamp label. Correio is owned by Quinta dos Roques which is one of the most regarded & revolutionay producers in the Dao. This provides fruit & structure for a pittance, along with a charismatic nose of apricot, peach, and Crenshaw melons. Correio finishes with long strides of lime peel & minneola pith--it deserves to be taken seriously despite its price! I paired this with hamachi crudo drizzled with sage oil & hibiscus salt at the Seattle Bloggers Meat Party, & it was a smashing success...

Quinta de Tourais Touronio 2005, Douro $12.99
Guys!!!! You have got to see this wine for yourself. This week I was at a trade tasting at Triage Wines & when I spotted this wine in the Portuguese row I chanted to myself, "Please let the wine be good, please let the wine be good..." There's nothing worse than being disappointed by a handsome illusion. But NO! I was absolutely taken with Touronio. This Douro is a direct import by Triage & it is made by a young couple, Fernando & Susana Coelho, who run a bed & breakfast in an ancient monastery. In the past they sold their grapes to local port producers, but started their own winery in 1999, and the grapes are actually stomped by feet in traditional lagares. Touronio is a study in contrasts as it has some of the bulging muscles of the Douro Valley, but a fresh & juicy side that teeters on the other side. Espresso & voluptuous blueberries, chunky tar are knit together by a wave of clean cassis. And the silk-screened label? I told you, you have to see it for yourself!!!

WINES FOR YOUR VALENTINE

Conde de Subirats Rose Brut Cava $11.99 (reg. $14.99)
"What a cool bottle!" exclaimed a wine friend of mine yesterday when I was giving him a tour of the "shop" yesterday. "How much is that?" I look forward to the day when I can lead you around an actual storefront or warehouse, but for now, let me tell you about the "inner-beauty" of Subirats rose... This is made from high altitude vineyards that were once owned by the Subirats castle, & imported by the tremendously talented wine sleuth, Aurelio Cabastrero. 90% indigenous Trepat & 10% Pinot Noir for added complexity, this brut fills your glass with blood orange & raspberry elixirs, caressing bubbles, & a kiss of clove. Just the right way to kick off a romantic evening...

Rocha Ten-Year-Old Tawny, $14.99 375 ml
I love a good tawny this time of the year, & Rocha always delivers when you need a bit of port by a blazing fireplace, a cat on your lap, & a good book cracked open... Can you tell I was an English major?? Hand-stenciled bottles & incredible craft keep the ports from partners Rocha & Kopke on my go-to list year after year. Drink in a little marmalade, melted caramel & palate-coating butterscotch, oh my.... This is an under $20 decadence that should be enjoyed with equally lip-smacking salt caramels.

Gran Barquero Oloroso, Montilla-Morilles $24.99 500 ml
This is a treasure! Even though Perez Barquero is one of the oldest & most respected bodegas in Montilla-Moriles, their "sherries" (only wines from Jerez & Sanlucar de Barrameda can be called sherry in Spain) have just now made it to the States. One thing that makes the wines of Montilla completely unique is that the wines are made with Pedro Ximenez rather than Palamino Fino, & I find it fascinating to taste this grape before it goes through the sun-drying process which is why normally PX tastes like liquid raisins. In fact Pedro Ximenez, can range from bone dry to ultra-sweet, & this Oloroso is a profound example of the complexities of solera-aged wines. This 15+ year-old solera enchants the senses with hazelnut & browned butter, crushed English shortbread cookies, and salted caramels. Lovely, soft, smooth, this oloroso can be sipped & savored once open for months!

Copyright 2009, Queso y Vino

February 11, 2009 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Jan. 21st Enews: Pate Escapades, the Last of a Classic, & Post-Obarama Bargains

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Man, hope you all enjoyed Obarama! My hubby roused me out of bed early yesterday morning to witness history-in-the-making (I think I watched the beginning with one eye open) but woke up by the time Aretha hit the stage. What a show. We then proceeded to spend most of the day celebrating (or planning on where to celebrate) because Ken's birthday happens to fall on Inauguration Day & we couldn't let that get *totally* overshadowed by the big event... A very nice coincidence indeed.

Aside from all that, the past week has been all about meat! First I was invited to a private lunch in the backroom at Salumi where our gourmet gang spent the afternoon grazing on everything from house-made coppa, to grilled lamb doused with tapenade, & gorgonzola gnocchi with pancetta flecks, washed down with a few glasses of vino of course. We then, wine glasses in hand, were treated to a tour of the curing facilities with Brian D'Amato, who officially took over for his father-in-law Armandino Batali in '07, gazing into the vaults of meat-curing furnaces & wistfully eyed the walls of dangling culatello--the ungodly expensive (& delicious) cut of gold that comes from the heart of the prosciutto leg. I felt a little guilty about taking the day off, but this was an educational experience, right?

This week's recipe was inspired by an incredible Seattle Food Bloggers Meat Party that I attended on Saturday night (I told you it was a meaty week!) where Brit blogger extraordinaire, Matt Wright of Wrightfood, treated a rowdy group of food writers to a massive amount of protein. Matt worked for months planning this parade of pate's, prosciutto, & even a whole roasted pork shoulder from Sea Breeze Farm on Vashon. I have no idea how I got so lucky to score an invitation to this event--oh yeah, I picked out & paired the wines--but if you have an interest in making your own charcuterie (or just feel like drooling), you need to check out the pictures on Matt's blog. Just don't punch me in the nose next time you see me.

Thanks for reading, & hope you need some wine this week! I need to lift a lot of boxes to work off the calories...

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- Subscribe to the Q.y.V newsletter--it's fun, taste-inspiring, & free!!!
More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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AIR-DRIED BEEF WITH FROMAGE BLANC & GREENS from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rodgers
One of my dreams is to start making cured meats at home, even though my one attempt to make duck prosciutto resulted an oceanically salty breast that was less than the size of your average hamster. Not too good for a first try, but I vow not to give up! This being said, I was really excited to see blogger Matt Wright's meat-making set up, as he has been getting into all things charcuterie. His curing rack is a crazy chicken coop, surrounded in plastic, suspended above a metal bowl of water--not quite like anything I saw on my tour of Salumi! Matt had been working on a duck prosciutto & a bresaola (dried beef) for the Seattle Food Bloggers Meat Party he was throwing, but unfortunately the prosciutto wasn't quite ready, & the bresaola went awry & ended up in the trash can. Bummer!

This deliciously simple salad is something I enjoy all winter until tomaters, cukes, & all the rest of the vegetable kingdom wakes up from their sleep in the spring. If you can't find fromage blanc, then substitute fresh ricotta, or a soft smearable goat cheese. I find that baby arugula, mizuna, or other greens with a bit of bite make a nice foil for the bresaola. Just don't substitute with those vacuum sealed dried beef packets my mom used to make dip out of--no, no, no. Matt, this one's for you!

4 servings

About 6 Tbs fromage blanc
12 to 16 thin slices air-dried beef (bresaola), about 2 oz
3 to 4 oz tiny salad greens, carefully washed & dried
About 2 Tbs lemon oil
Salt

Smear 1 to 2 tsp of cheese onto each slice of meat, fold over, & pinch closed. Toss the greens with the lemon oil to coat & a pinch of salt. Arrange the pinched meat "turnovers" around a nest of salad.

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Vinedos de El Seque 2006, Alicante $11.99

Another great wine from Juan Carlos Lopez de la Calle, winemaker & owner of famed Rioja estate Artadi. While Artadi focuses on Tempranillo, & Artazuri showcases Grenache, this newest project is all about old-vine higher elevation Monastrell. Alicante has a low rainfall & also extremely unfertile soil which means we get to enjoy old vine goodness that comes from deep in the earth. This has a rich nose of dark currants with traces of iron & minerals along with dark chocolate. Intensely flavored with licorice & a silty texture plus a touch of blueberry, El Seque is certainly something Monastrell lovers should add to their wine rack. I gave this 90 points at a recent blind tasting of $25 & under wines from around the world...

Bodegas Mano a Mano Venta la Ossa 2005, La Mancha $14.99
This is the Tempranillo of the future! Wake up, WA wine lovers, collectors of cult CA cabs--this is going to save you a load of money. Venta la Ossa is one of those wines I was prepared to dislike because it is *so* new world that I would never be able to guess the grape, but the lush creaminess of cherry liqueur & exotic spices managed to seduce me, nonetheless. You know when wine reviews say a wine is sexy? Well that fits this to a T. Maybe I should have saved this for a Valentine's Day recommendation!! This is something people have already been re-ordering as a favorite from my "Omakase" cases...
-90 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Vina Amezola Crianza 2001, Rioja $16.99
This is one of the first wines I bought for Queso y Vino when I got my liquor license, & I'm finally getting around to tell you about it! Vina Amezola is as classic as it gets when it comes to the Rioja, especially since their bodega was one of the first three to be established in the region. 2001 was an exceptional vintage, & let me tell you, it is exceedingly difficult to find any bottles in the affordable Crianza range left from this year... In fact, I wanted to use this in a Tempranillo tasting a week ago, but when I called to order more, I was told that the 2001 vintage is now gone for good. That means the stash in my little cellar is amongst the last you can get your hands on! This Crianza has all the benefits of aging gracefully in the bottle, & continues on the old world path of smoothed out, earthy dried cherry & plum skins, cigar box spices, and yes, a little pickle barrel (that's totally Rioja!) People were buying this by the case at the introduction to Tempranillo class I taught this fall... Don't miss out on this classic!!

Copyright 2009, Queso y Vino

January 22, 2009 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Jan. 14th Enews: Obama Bubblies & Tikki Patties

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

As I finish this week's tale of wine & food, the windows are fogging up & the house is being filled with the sweet smell of our Christmas tamales steaming in baskets on the stove... Pretty soon I'll need to throw some Prosecco on ice, as we have our family from the San Juan's here, & more hungry friends arriving for a Mexican feast on a chilly clear January night, a welcome respite from the damp misty days that have been the norm for the New Year. So on with the news!

I'm sure many of us will be celebrating the historic election of our new 44th President, next Tuesday, so I've got some bubbly recommendations for you this week, plus the notable return of Gouguenheim Malbec, & some great deals in the offerings. So read on, & "Yes, we can!"

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- Subscribe to the Q.y.V newsletter--it's fun, taste-inspiring, & free!!!
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UPCOMING EVENTS:

Queso y Vino's Mediterranean Getaway at Olivar
806 E. Roy Street (in Capitol Hill)
Thursday, January 29th at 7:00 pm
$55 a person, including wine (plus tax & gratuity)

OUR MENU~

Tortilla Espanola
carmelized onions, sherry vinegar

Fresh Spanish Sardines Escabeche
pan con tomate

Seared Scallops con Nuevo Arroz Negro
fried black squid ink rice

House-Marinated Lamb Cutlets
rosemary & thyme, garlic flan

"Chocolate Delight"
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CRISP CHEESE TIKKI PATTIES from Asian Tapas by Cristophe Megel & Anton Kilayko
Inauguration Day is coming up, & I know that there is going to be some serious partying going on, at least in Seattle... Let's bring in the new year with some spiced-up queso! I made this Northern Indian-inspired recipe for New Year's a few years ago, & I still remember the flavors of nutty chickpea flour, the pungency of ginger & cilantro, and piping hot cheese oozing in a delicious wave of Asian flavors. These are best served straight from the pan, but I guarantee they won't last long once they're plated up!

Cook's tip: (The patties can be prepared the day before & refrigerated before frying.)

Makes 24 pieces

1 cup drained yogurt* (instructions below)
1 cup cream cheese or paneer
1/2 large red onion, diced
4 Tbs minced fresh ginger root
2 tsp minced cilantro leaves
1/2 to 1 tsp salt
3/4 cup chickpea flour or breadcrumbs
Oil for deep-frying

Combine the yogurt & cream cheese or paneer in a bowl & mix well with the onion, chilies, ginger, coriander leaves & salt. Chill in the refrigerator for 10 minutes to harden slightly.

Pour the chickpea flour or breadcrumbs into a medium bowl. Flour your hands, scoop 1 Tbs of the cheese mixture & form it into a small patty. Coat the patty on all sides with the chickpea flour or breadcrumbs. Repeat until the cheese mixture is used up.

Deep fry the patties in a wok or a saucepan over high heat, turning constantly, for 1 minute or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels & serve hot.

*Hang the yogurt for 1/2 an hour in a piece of cloth or placing it in a paper coffee filter & allowing it to drain out.

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Gouguenheim Malbec 2007, Mendoza ARG $9.99

New vintage! I'm head over heels for all the Gouguenheim wines--the price, the flavor, the package--incredible for ten bucks. This extremely popular wine is back in to ring in the New Year! Fresh blackberries & cassis tango with smokey bbq notes & a kiss of mint. Textured & elegant, this Malbec has a smoothness that makes it uber-versatile & amongst my perennial $10 & under favorites. I'm telling you, you can't go wrong with Gouguenheim!

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005, Vino de la Tierra Castilla $10.99 (reg. $11.99)
More than just a tourist destination, Toledo is beginning to export some fantastic wines. The local varietal Cencibel is a clone of Tempranillo with an earthier dark-fruited feel that had me crowing. Fermented partially in traditional tinajas, clay vessels dating back to 1851, Ercavio speaks the language of coriander, soil, black currants & basil. Loved the melted chocolate essence of this vintage & this is always a fave when I've poured it. This would go hand & hand with a wooden plate of garlicky chorizo & a sultry flamenca by your side. Ole!
-90 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Teofilo Reyes Tamiz 2006, Ribera del Duero $14.99 (reg. $17.99)
According to Robert Parker, "By most accounts, Teofilo Reyes is the most legendary winemaker in Ribera del Duero." This comes as no surprise as Reyes made his first wine in 1950 at the young age of 28, and went on to become the winemaker for famed bodega Pesquera from 1974 to 1993, and finally went off to form his own winery in '94. And I'm partial to graduated renegades these days, okay?

This is a brand new (& I must say, an swirly artistic label that definitely shocked me when I saw it--you go, Teo!) wine that brings Bodegas Reyes well into the 21st century. 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged 7 months in American oak, Tamiz offers a sweet shop of tootsie roll, brownie & black cherry aromas to sink your nose into. Cedar & framboise oo la la, fine spices with good strong shoulders. I would be diggin' this with some mole braised short ribs, oh yes I would.

January 20, 2009 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino's Jan. 7th Enews: Sauternes Sauteed Pork Chops & Save the Date for Olivar!

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Happy New Year, everyone! It's looking normal again out there--who'd think that we'd be happy to have the rain back in Seattle? Our cooking has turned from decadent holiday dishes to homey classics--tonight Nigel Slater's bangers & mash recipe should help us use up some of the butterballs we have lying around, & I've taken Uli's sausage out to thaw. January's a good time to work your way through the freezer, don't you think? It reminds me of all the food adventures we embarked on the year before... The only problem is, when did I make that chanterelle risotto? And how old are those pierogi's?

Anyway, I look forward to sharing new food & wine stories, and hearing what you'll be up to in 2009. Maybe I'll finally make it to Sicily this year? We shall see. One thing that I do know is that it's time for a Queso y Vino wine dinner! For this one I'll be partnering up with my buddy Philippe Thomelin, formerly of Harvest Vin e & Rover's, at his beautiful new restaurant Olivar in Capitol Hill. You may have seen the article in the most recent Seattle Magazine where reviewer Allison Austin Scheff named Olivar as her new favorite restaurant... Phillipe's grandmother was Catalan, & he spent years living in Spain where he learned the heart & soul of Mediterranean cooking. I will have a menu soon, but if you'd like me to save you a seat, I'll start making the list!

Queso y Vino's Mediterranean Getaway at Olivar
806 E. Roy Street (in Capitol Hill)
Thursday, January 29th at 6:30 pm
$55 a person, including wine (plus tax & gratuity)

Hope to see you there...

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com
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PORK CHOPS WITH GINGER, SAUTERNES & COARSE MUSTARD from Chanterelle by David Waltuck
I love supporting our local farmers, & our freezer is fully loaded with organic meats that I have picked up on our various gourmet road trips. One Saturday after hitting the Olympia Farmer's Market, we decided to finally visit the Meat Shop of Tacoma, the oldest certified organic meat shop in Washington, which I'd always heard murmurings about. Turns out the Meat Shop is not in the city of Tacoma really, but out in farm country, hidden behind a trailer home. It's a teensy mom & pop place, and at first we were a little afraid to go in after seeing a guy in a bloody rubber apron dump a bucket of something out the back door & started to hear the "Deliverance" banjo's in our heads... But the gal inside made us feel welcome, & soon we were loading up on tasty thick bacon & pork chops. This recipe from the gorgeous new Chanterelle cookbook looks like a reason to thaw out some pig!

Serves 4

1/4 cup peeled & coarsely chopped fresh ginger
2 cups Sauternes or Muscat
2 cups chicken stock
Four 10-oz bone-in center-cut pork chops, trimmed of fat
Kosher salt
Black pepper from a mill
1/4 cup canola or other neutral oil
1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 Tbs grainy mustard
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter

Put the ginger & the Sauternes in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, & reduce, swirling, until it becomes caramelized & syrupy, about 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl & discard the ginger. Return the reduction to the pan & pour in the stock. Bring to a boil & reduce the sauce to 1 cup, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat. (The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 24 hours.)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Heat a large, heavy-bottomed, ovenproof saute pan over high heat until very hot. Season the pork chops generously with salt & pepper. Pour the oil into the hot pan, let it get hot, & add the chops. Brown the meat well, about 4 minutes per side. Drain & discard the oil, then place the pan to the oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the chops to a plate or platter & keep covered & warm while you finish the sauce.

Use a paper towel to carefully wipe any excess oil out of the saute pan. Return the pan to high heat, pour in the Sauternes reduction & bring to a boil. Add the lemon juice & mustard, then whisk in the butter, 1 Tbs at a time.

Put a chop on each of the 4 dinner plates & divide the sauce evenly among the servings, covering the chops. Serve immediately.

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THIS WEEK'S QUESO Y VINO WINE PICKS
Queso y Vino, your mobile wine shop complete with a traveling expert Iberian sommelier (that's me!) is at your service. Hope you jump on the board to sample these tasty cellar selections & affordable wines... Personally selected "Omakase" cases built around your palate, desires, & budget are my specialty. Check out the growing selection of wines available that are listed on my blog, & special requests are always welcome. Just ask & I'll be your vino bloodhound, sniffing out your favorite bottles!

I offer a 10% discount on whole or mixed cases, free delivery for orders over $150, smaller orders will be conveniently & gladly delivered to you for the nominal fee of $10. Ask me if you'd like to arrange a free pick up at the Saturday University Farmer's Market or Sunday at the Ballard Farmer's Market or the West Seattle Farmer's Market.

Bodegas Aragonesas Coto de Hayas Tinto 2006, Campo de Borja $8.99
I often write about all the great values to be found in Grenache from Spain, & Coto de Hayas is no exception. What this cooperative has done differently is to experiment with planting new varietals in their rocky high-elevation vineyards, so not only do you get to taste 40+ year-old Garnacha, but also 25+ year-old Tempranillo, & 10-year-old Syrah and Cabernet. The result is a richly-colored fantastically-fruited quaffer from the "preserve of the beech trees". Enjoy a burst of cassis & cherry pits, finely-grained tannins, & a brioche finish in this tinto... My co-taster piped up, "Nice mouthfeel!" I noted that I thought this would make an outstanding pizza wine, & lo & behold, I found out Wine Spectator voted Coto one of their 2008 recommended "Value Reds to Serve with Pizza". Hey, I guess we're on the same wavelength! I'll take a sausage, mushroom, & black olive slice to go, please...

Bodega Elvira Calle Alberti 154 Cabernet, Mendoza $8.99
Elvira was my grandmother's name, so this wine has some sentimental value to me, but there's plenty of reasons why you're going to get your money's worth with this new Cab. The winery is named after a famous philanthropist, & "Alberti 154" turns out to be the street address for this off-the-beaten path producer. Alberti comes straight from the acclaimed Lujan de Cuyo region of Argentina where granite stone-covered soils radiate warmth in the evenings, ripening the grapes, & providing full-bodied flavors for this small-lot wine studio. I was taken with the aroma of melted caramel & savory black currants, & the rich cherry core. Nutmeg, & other exotic spices grace this bold wine which should help keep you warm through the winter. Pop this open for the family the next time you're making a Sunday Italian feast with sausage, meatballs & braciole!

Quinta Sa de Baixo Palestra Vinho Tinto 2006, Douro $8.99
For those of you who have been enjoying the Berco de Infante, here is the next under $10 Portuguese red to try! From the same folks who make the fantastic Grilos from the Dao, Palestra weighs in at a lovely 13% alcohol, but is jam-packed with juicy goodness. This exudes a rich black cherry perfume, next comes a wave of acidity that suddenly made me think "Sangiovese?"--this is food-friendly wine, folks. Solid all around, there's a Mediterranean vibe going on, with tart pomegranate juice, brandied-candied cherries, Mexican vanilla, licorice, eucalyptus, & plum cobbler. My notes just kept coming! Fluid, with a dusting of spices, this versatile vinho will be a hit on your table, not on your wallet.

La Veli Passamente Rosso 2005, Salente $10.99
A few blizzardy weeks ago, my husband & I were anxious to celebrate the arrival of the new (& only) pizza place in our neighborhood, Pizzeria Pulcinella, so much so that we chained up & headed out into the snow trying like heck to avoid all the crazy hills. After taking the long route to get there, we stomped off our boots at the doorway, but much to our chagrin found out that they were hosting a private party & weren't open for business yet. Rats! So we mukluked-it back to the truck & headed for another south-end Italian restaurant whose name I won't mention because it was honestly the worst Italian meal either of us had ever eaten. The only redeeming factor was discovering this wine!!! It actually restored our smiles & weary spirits, & we corked half of it up just so we could enjoy it at home in front of the fireplace.

Li Veli is situated in Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot, which is also the largest wine-producing region in the country. But in recent years, the focus has begun to shift from quantity to quality, & northern producers have begun to buy up this southern real estate. And that's just what happened at Li Veli. Tuscan giant Aviognesi (who make de-licious Montepulciano's) bought the Masseria in 1999, & brought new life to the dream of its original founder, a famous Italian architect who wanted Li Veli to be a model winery for all of Italy. Their Passamente is 100% Negroamaro (meaning "dark, dark") aged 6 months in barrel & it is a silky smooth concoction. Musky notes on the nose make this a match for succulent meat dishes or mushrooms, then there's a bit of cherry coke, dark lush plums, & a grove of eucalyptus. We do a lot of Italian cooking at home, so I sure am glad to have a stash of this now to remind us of our adventures in the snow!

Paul Anheuser Kreuznacher Monchberg Scheurebe 2007, Nahe $11.99
Well, you certainly know from the name of this one that's it's not from Iberia! This lovely little number came home in Ken's sample bag, & I found it so refreshing that I had to share this find with you! My husband is a Riesling pack rat--I think we have more of it in our cellar than anything else--and I am usually partial to top-of-the-line bottlings, like Cuvee St. Catherine of course, but Paul Anheuser has created a bargain that goes wonderfully with all the Asian dishes that Ken whips up. The Anheuser family has been in the business of winemaking since the the 1600's, & one of the family immigrated to St. Louis where he started a little brewery known as Anheuser-Busch. The rest of the family stayed in the wine biz, helping to pioneer the Nahe region, & Paul is now the 13th generation at their estate.

2007 was a benchmark year in perfection for Germany, & flowering was completed one full month ahead of what's normal. The Nahe Valley is a Riesling lover's "insider's secret"--the land of meandering rivers, forests, & a turbulent geological history that provides incredible minerality in the wines. Slightly off-dry, this white has glacier & quartzite tones in spades, with soft white nectarines, fresh quince & hints of allspice. Use a little to make Vikram Vij's Marinated Lamb Popsicles with Fenugreek Cream Curry & chill the rest for a perfect pairing!

Copyright 2008, Queso y Vino

January 20, 2009 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Dec. 31st Enews: A Turkish Delight, Benetton Bottles, & Happy New Year to You!!

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Oh, am I ready to clink glasses tonight & ring in the New Year!!! For those of you who have followed me through the roller coaster ride that was my life in 2008, I can truly say I'm glad to be turning the page on such a high note. And I owe it all to you...and my ever-supportive husband & family. I got my "star employee" a big bottle of the most expensive bourbon at the Renton liquor store for putting up with all my backseat driving & for giving up sleeping in on Saturday's so I can be at the farmer's market. Thanks, Ken :)

I am actually glad that we got snowed in for a few days because I had a very lovely time catching up on sleep, spending time with my hubby & cat, then we took a road trip to Portland where we bought out all the gibassiers at the Pearl Bakery & dined at Sel Gris, & commenced a week of celebrating by making one hundred tamales with friends over margaritas. What a way to cap off the year!

So, I wish you a splendid New Year & look forward to all our eating & drinking adventures in 2009. Salud & abrazos!

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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GREEN OLIVE, WALNUT & POMEGRANATE SALAD from Turquoise: A Chef's Travels in Turkey by Greg & Lucy Malouf
Santa was good to me this year!!! I can't wait to start sharing some of the recipes from my new cookbooks, & this is the first of many. Once I laid my eyes on this at the bookstore, it went to the top of my list. Stunning pictures, exotic recipes, & all the flavors I crave this time of year. Protein-rich & heart healthy, this salad is just the way to ring in 2009 & celebrate the season of fresh pomegranates!
(A handy tip from chef Jose Andres on shelling pomegranate seeds--cut the pomegranate in half across the middle, not through the stem, wrap each half in cheesecloth & then whack with a wooden spoon or rolling pin. The seeds should easily pop out.)

Serves 4

3/4 cup walnuts
1/2 cup pitted green olives, washed & coarsely chopped
1/4 cup unsalted, shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
2 small shallots, peeled & finely diced
1 red serrano chile, seeded & finely diced
1 Tbs shredded flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 Tbs olive oil
1 Tbs walnut oil
splash of pomegranate molasses
juice of 1/2 lemon
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Scatter the walnuts onto a jelly-roll pan & roast for 5-10 minutes until a deep golden brown. Pour the nuts into a tea towel & rub well to remove as much skin as possible. Chop the walnuts coarsely & toss in a sieve to remove any remaining skin & dust.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl & toss gently. Leave to stand for 5 minutes or so before serving, to allow the flavors to meld.

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Marques de Campo Nuble Crianza 2005, Rioja $12.99
New, New, New, not just to us, but to the US! Folks who travel to Spain often inquire about great Rioja's that they sipped on at dinner in some taberna, only to never see them again... I'll *bet* this was one of them. After cracking a sample open, I was shocked to read that this bodega has been in operation for over 100 years--jeez, Spain must have been keeping this all of their production for themselves! 2005 was granted the prestige of "excellence" by the Rioja D.O.C., & this Crianza ranks high on the bargain list from this classic region.

100% Tempranillo, (did I mention 100 yr-old cellars?), from folks that use traditional methods, but have invested heavily in modernized equipment--this is where the old & new intersect seamlessly! Layers of baked fruit come clean on the nose, with vanilla sidekicks, black pepper & earth, and I'm loving the creme brulee aspects. My co-taster thought it had "NW jammy" quotes & roasted spices, and I later noted candied vanilla bean. There's definitely a New World influence in this Rioja--but Campo Nuble manages to find the perfect bridge betwixt the old & new. Enjoy!

January 02, 2009 | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Dec. 24th Enews: Goat Cheese Truffles, 12 Days of Sparkly, & Merry Christmas!!!

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

As a former east coast girl, I am loving the fact that the world outside my window is frosted thick with snowy icing & that Santa has delivered us a true-blue white Christmas this year... The weather has made my life pretty interesting for the last two weeks, but we had a full table at Taberna Alarbardero last Friday with people traveling an impressive distance to attend, & then Ken and I dragged ourselves the next morn from bed and loaded up his chained-up truck with goodies. With lots of perseverance (and a bit of cussing) we managed to get all our Seattle deliveries done on Saturday before being snowed in again. Well actually, one fun crew of determined revellers braved their way up to our house in Skyway to stock up before the storm! How cool is that?

So I am glad to have the peacefulness of the snow slow me down for a few days & really get into the holiday spirit. Until yesterday, I didn't even know what we were having for dinner tonight on Christmas Eve! That's pretty pathetic for two foodie's... *But* Ken & I have been celebrating the twelve days of Christmas with a bottle of sparkling wine every night, so this week I'm sharing some old & new favorites with you. If you need any wine of any kind for New Year's Eve, please do let me know, & we'll do our best to get you ready to toast to 2009!

I relish the fact that some of you will be opening something special that I picked out for you and your family to share tonight--what a wonderful feeling :) Have a very Merry Christmas one & all!

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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GOAT CHEESE TRUFFLES THREE WAYS WITH PEPERONATA from The Babbo Cookbook by Mario Batali
I've always loved Soreda's sweet little "chevre cherries" rolled in spices that come from France, but these bite-sized treats are hard to come by... (I can't wait until I'm selling cheese again!) As long as you've got access to good fresh goat cheese & have a well-stocked spice cabinet, you can concoct your own! Colorful & festive, this dish is vibrant with holiday cheer and covers most of a gourmet's basic food groups. *But* you could also skip the peperonata & make a plate of truffles for your New Year's Eve party--goat cheese & sparkling wine go hand in hand!

Serves 4 (as a plated appetizer)

Peperonata
2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, & cut into thin strips
1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, & cut into thin strips
2 Tbs sherry vinegar
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 cups fresh goat cheese
1/4 cup ground pimenton (Spanish paprika)
1/4 cup ground fennel seeds or fennel pollen
1/4 cup poppy seeds
1 lb arugula
3 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs fresh lemon juice
12 1/2-inch slices from a baguette
Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

To make the peperonata: In a 12- to 14-inch saute pan, heat the 2 Tbs of olive oil over high heat until almost smoking. Add the red & yellow peppers & saute over high heat for 4 minutes, or until browned at the edges & softened. Add the sherry vinegar, salt, & pepper, reduce the heat to medium, & continue to cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the peppers are tender. Adjust the seasonings & set aside to cool.

Place the goat cheese in a medium bowl & season with salt & pepper. Divide the cheese into 12 portions & gently roll each portion into a ball. Roll four balls in the pimenton to completely coat, then roll four in the fennel, & four in the poppy seeds. Set aside.

Preheat the oven or broiler to 400 degrees F.

Bring 4 cups of water to a boil & set up an ice bath next to the stove. Drop the arugula in the boiling water, blanch for 10 seconds, then remove with a slotted spoon & immediately refresh in the ice bath. Remove from the ice bath, gently squeeze out the excess liquid with a paper towel or a clean dish towel, & place the arugula in a medium bowl. Toss with the 3 Tbs of olive oil, the lemon juice, salt , & pepper.

Toast the bread slices in the oven or broiler for 2 minutes, until slightly browned & crispy.

To assemble the dish, divide the arugula & peperonata among four dinner plates. Place one of each flavor of goat cheese truffle on each plate. Drizzle with the olive oil, lean 3 slices of toast up against each trio of truffles, & serve.

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BREAK OUT THE BUBBLES!

Parxet Cuvee 21 Brut Cava, $9.99
I once went to visit this wonderful winery outside of Barcelona where everything is still done painstakingly by hand--so how on earth can they charge this price??? I've never understood why Spanish cava is so inexpensive, but I won't argue. Parxet has always reminded me of lemon zest & marzipan, and long been a customer favorite. Cheers to great bubbles for ten bucks!
"Fresh, light & crisp. Faint nose with flavors of lemon, walnut, creamy apple & honey; touches of anise & smoke; simple & a touch sweet; aggressive bubbles." -San Francisco Chronicle

Zuccardi Vida Organica Sparkling Chardonnay 2007, $12.99
Where else in the world but Argentina are you going to find sparkling Chardonnay, made in the Champenoise-style for this price?? The Zuccardi family purchased property outside of Mendoza in the 60's, & went with all-natural farming techniques in the 90's. So not only is this a bargain, but it's also organic! Classy pear, apple, & biscuity bubbles, rounded flavors yet crisp composure, with a creamy mousse. This has been a huge hit at my wine dinner series, as people were shocked by how affordable it was...

Cristalino Brut Nature Vintage Cava 2005, $14.99 750 ml, $15.99 Magnums!!!
Okay, so everybody & their brother knows about Cristalino, but I hadn't seen their single vintage bottling since a tasting at their winery in Spain! This is special stuff, as they age for 30 months on the lees, & add 30% Chardonnay, half of which has been aged in oak. Intriguing notes of egg custard, toasty pears, & smokiness--this cava is completely unique. These are serious bubbles with a long-lasting austere grapefruit/lime finish with almost a Manzanilla-ish quality. Wow, pretty cool stuff.
So here's the deal with the magnum price--magnums of the regular Cristalino Brut were supposed to arrive, but didn't, so the distributor had to match the price. Normally the magnums of their Vintage Brut go for $20 wholesale--you'd be silly to pass this deal up!!!

Juve y Camps Cava Reserva de Familia Brut Nature, $15.99
This is the cava that my friend Jose's family served every Sunday, as Catalan families usually pick one brand & stay loyal for life. It's elegant, amazing, & a must-try--I see why his family chose this one! Brut Nature means no dosage (sugar) is added so this is as crisp as a freshly sliced apple. Citrus oil & faint berry aromas with dried pear elegance... Toasty with perky bubbles, it's hard to resist this cava. Don't think of this only for special occasions–it's way too good!

Gramona Gran Cuvee Cava 2004, $21.99
Gramona is one of the last hold-outs for cava producers that are still family-run rather than operated by large companies, & this has always been my favorite premium cava. A traditional blend of Xarello, Macabeo, Parellada, I love the exceptional elegance of this sparkling wine from Spain. Honey & beeswax aromatics float above golden apple fruit & macaroon notes--but let's talk about the bubbles, shall we? Very fine with an extremely crisp mineral side, and then Gramona evolves into the creamy, toasty style I crave as it opens in the glass. Fantastic value.

January 02, 2009 | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Dec. 18th E-news: Clio Alert! Gift Certificates, & Sweet Stocking Stuffers

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Man, it's really coming down!!! The snow glistens outside, the holiday lights are up, & I awake each morning to the smell of Christmas as I come down the stairs to our be-jeweled Doug Fir from the Dunshee House on Capitol Hill (our tradition for the last six years...) I'm not a kid anymore, but I love this special time just the same!

I'm totally behind on buying presents, which is somewhat expected when launching a new business at the craziest time of the year, and the weather hasn't helped matters. But if you're in the same boat, my magnanimous husband made a trip to Staples & bought supplies for handsome Queso y Vino gift certificates & matching saffron-colored envelopes. How cool is that?!

Get your shopping done in a heart beat with a Queso y Vino gift certificate starting at $25--you get to choose the amount--and you'll give an adventure in wine! Gift certificates are redeemable for any of the passionately chosen wines that appear in my weekly newsletters, private wine classes, all of the great finds and favorites I stock here at Queso y Vino headquarters, & any bottles ordered at my on-going wine dinner series... I'm always happy to put an "omakase" selection together for the wine lover on your list, as your trusted roaming sommelier.

Ho, ho, ho! Hope you are enjoying the snow and Queso y Vino's sleigh will be out delivering (with chains on & fingers-crossed!) Saturday through Wednesday, December 23rd with gifts of good cheer!

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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ANCHOVY & PISTO BOCADILLOS from Spain & the World Table by The Culinary Institute of America
Okay, so it was so hard to choose one recipe from this new & inspiringly innovative cookbook last week that I decided to include a second one this week! The humble dish of pisto (Spain's version of ratatouille) brings back fond memories of La Mancha. Life in this region of windmills & sweeping plains tends to be simple--the people there are salt of the earth, & the dishes are as well. This is definitely a fancified play on a traditional dish, but a perfect finger food for holiday entertaining!

Serves 8

8 baguette slices, sliced on the bias 1/4 inch thick
8 to 16 oil-packed boneless anchovies, rinsed
2 Tbs sherry vinegar
10 Tbs extra virgin olive oil, divided use
1 1/2 cups small-dice yellow onion
1 1/3 cups small-dice green bell peppers
1 1/3 cups small-dice red peppers
1 1/2 cups small-dice zucchini
1 1/2 cups finely chopped vine-ripened tomatoes (skin & seeds removed)
1/2 tsp salt, or as needed
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper, or as needed
2 tsp aged balsamic vinegar

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Toast the baguette slices on an ungreased baking sheet for 8 to 10 minutes, flipping halfway through, until crisp & dry on the surface but still a bit chewy & soft on the inside.

Toss the anchovy fillets with the sherry vinegar & 2 Tbs of olive oil. Refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat & add the onions & peppers. Cook, stirring from time to time, until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the zucchini & tomatoes, season with the salt & pepper, & cook for another 15 minutes, or until the mixture is very tender & fragrant. Taste & adjust the seasoning with salt as needed. Remove from the heat.

Dry the anchovies. Top each piece of toast with 2 Tbs of the vegetable mixture (pisto). Lay 1 to 2 anchovy fillets, depending on the size, on top of the pisto. Dress with 1/4 tsp of balsamic vinegar & serve.

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Dominio de Eguren Codice 2006, Castilla $8.99

This wine is JUICY! It's been a few years since I tried Codice, but I took this for a test run at a holiday party last weekend & it was a hit! Great new vintage of 100% Tempranillo aged 6 months in oak (like a semi-crianza) from central Spain made by the famous Marcos Eguren who is responsible for Sierra Cantabria & San Vicente--this man knows his Tempranillo. Grilled fruit, smoke & spice unite with a dusting of minerals, leaving you with a mouthful of summer strawberries. This is super-easy to drink. A long-time critic & customer favorite for value!

Cavas Hill Reserva Artesania Brut de Brut Cava, $9.99
Brand-spankin' new & a bargain to boot, pull out your champagne glasses & toast to the holidays! Thank goodness Cavas Hill has done a face lift on their labels... Their sparkling wines are great, but their 70's rainbow-splashed labels always made them a tough sell. The new Artesania is a handsome & tasty $10 treat. Almonds & toast, apples & pears are there to get the party started, but then wham! there's great acidity & the sensation of biting into a salted granny smith apple & a crisp MacIntosh at the same time. A superbly affordable bubbly to have on hand this time of the year!

Quinta dos Grilos Vinho Tinto 2006, Dao $10.99
Jiminy cricket! This is one of the most delicious wines from the Dao I've had for this price. I can usually tell how much I like a wine by the length of my wine notes, & I had a lot to pen about this one. A super-cool blend of Touriga National, Alfrocheiro and Tinto Roriz, this is doused with brilliant aromas of passionfruit & a handful or crushed berries. Silty, textured, & delightful, Grilos is packed with mountain huckleberries, desert dust, jasmine tea, pomegranate molasses, blueberry, plus cloves & cinnamon eastern spices. Totally versatile, and gulpable all on its own--I dig this cricket!!

Marques de Irun Blanco Superior 2007, Rueda $12.99
Just knowing that this estate is owned by famed sherry producer Bodegas Lustau tells you you're about to taste a classic... Let the lion lead the way! This is the softer side of Verdejo, pure & unblended, with lush pineapple & honeyed lemon drops (referring to texture, not sweetness) that keeps to the dry charm of Verdejo but in a slightly richer format. But there's a great quartz streak running through it that brought back instant memories of the chalky soils I strolled through when visiting the region... This is the stuff for heady Indian meals or spicy Mexican Christmas tamales!

Enologica Temera Alodio Mencia 2007, Ribeira Sacra $14.99
Very rarely do any of the red wines from Galicia make their way from Spain, & you should see the pictures of Temera's vineyards! Wow--craggy old vines popping up straight from terraces of river rocks from the Rio Sil in Orense. No wonder this wine tastes so good... The nose jumps right out of the glass with freesia & bold pie fruits, and this had an incredible stoniness that screams terrioir. Really juicy & fresh with fantastic balance, ground white pepper, & lasting crushed minerals. Think pork tenderloin or duck with a reduced cherry sauce & you're on the highway to pairing heaven.

Descendientes Palacios Petalos del Bierzo 2006, Bierzo $22.99
"Delicious, delicious, delicious..." is what went through my mind when we cracked open a bottle of this on Sunday. We were cooking up some Thundering Hooves lamb keftes with saffron rice & a tagine of egglant, chickpeas, red peppers in a harissa sauce, and MAN this wine did the job brilliantly! The latest revelation from Spanish wine impressario Alvaro Palacios. This time Palacios has enlisted his Bordeaux-studied nephew to take on the challenging terroir of Bierzo with its precipitous schist hillsides. Likened to Burgundy's Cote d'Or & Piedmont's Langhe hills, Bierzo makes almost exclusive use of old-vine Mencía, a possible variant of Cab Franc brought down by French pilgrims. Currants & pomegranate seeds evolve like a foreign flavor squad. Minerals explode with garrigue qualities (that's wine talk for rockrose), and a bit of leather seriousness thrown into play. Plump & plush cordial cherries, white pepper, plus pithy slate.

Looking for a Christmas gift for a wine lover? Need something special to put on the holiday table? This wine is one that you should have on hand when you feel like treating yourself to a little something extra. It sure perked up my spirits!

-91 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
-91 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

STELLAR STOCKING STUFFERS:

Rocha Ten-Year-Old Tawny, $14.99 375 ml
I love a good tawny this time of the year, & Rocha always delivers when you need a bit of port by a blazing fireplace, a cat on your lap, & a good book cracked open... Can you tell I was an English major?? Hand-stenciled bottles & incredible craft keep the ports from partners Rocha & Kopke on my go-to list year after year. Drink in a little marmalade, melted caramel & palate-coating butterscotch, oh my.... This is an under $20 decadence that should be enjoyed with equally lip-smacking salt caramels.

Broadbent 'Lot 1 Auction Reserve Port', Porto $12.99, 375 ml
This is a PLEASURE to drink. While I usually reserve such enthusiasm for single vintage ports, this one (bottled by Niepoort) seduced me into believing that yes Virginia, great blended ruby ports do exist. On the tongue, you'll find cherries & boysenberries dipped in milk chocolate, pot au creme & a caramel/custardy richness. It's as if you dipped into a box of cordials–the sweet fruit hooks you & then a rich caramel/vanilla sensation glides down your tongue. The flavors make you want to sip it slowly, but the delicious nature of this port is hard to resist.

GOING, GOING, GONE! A MUST-HAVE CELLAR SELECTION:

Bodegas El Nido Clio 2006, Jumilla $45.00 Highly allocated!
Of all the higher-end Spanish selections I have come upon over the years, Clio definitely is the one that brings consumers to their knees asking, "Do you have any bottles left???" Return customers often buy six at a time & allocations seem to become scarcer every year. Now's your chance to taste the future of Jumilla in a cellar-worthy style... No official big-wig reviews out yet, but Clio will be LONG gone before the ratings are released. Here's the skinny on the '05 vintage which is of course, long gone...

"The 2005 Clio, composed of 70% old-vine Monastrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, is opaque purple-colored with an enthralling bouquet of pain grille, spice box, violets, espresso, blueberry, and blackberry. Layered, opulent, and full-flavored, this thick wine has superb concentration and balance. It will evolve for 6-8 years and drink well through 2025.

The winemaking at the El Nido project is overseen by renowned Australian vigneron Chris Ringland. After a meticulous selection process, the grapes are basket pressed and fermented in oak. Malolactic fermentation occurs in new French and American oak where the wine remains for 26 months." -95 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Copyright 2008, Queso y Vino

December 23, 2008 | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Enews: December 11th: "Spained" Stuffed Mushrooms, $10 Sparkly, & the Port I'm Kicking Myself for Spitting

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

Well, our Christmas tree is up, & it's *half* decorated after the hubby & I ran out of fuel on Saturday night & collapsed in chairs by the fireplace... I hope we get it done before Christmas! Queso y Vino is busy as an elf getting presents ready for thirsty wine lovers--this week I actually got an order from a couple in Ireland who found me on Google & wanted to send their kids a special delivery of holiday cheer!!! That just about knocked me off my seat :)

So I hope you enjoy this week's recipe and wine finds--remember that you're by no means limited to what you see here... Give me a budget & I'm happy to put a case together especially for you, or find the right gift, or pair special bottles with your holiday meals! Keep sending the word to your family & friends (thanks to all who are sharing my news!) and I hope you are finding time to take a deep breath and enjoy what this season is all about...

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com
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CHORIZO-STUFFED MUSHROOMS from Spain & the World Table by The Culinary Institute of America
Growing up in an Italian enclave of upstate New York, a holiday without some sort of stuffed mushroom appetizer wouldn't seem complete for me... Since I have some Spanish chorizo kicking around, I thought it might be fun to try an Iberian version this year. And this brand new Spanish cookbook is fabulous--I found it at my local library, but it might just be going on my Christmas wish list!

Serves 8

24 large white button or cremini mushrooms, wiped clean with a damp towel or cloth
6 Tbs plus 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, divided use
6 Tbs (3/4 stick) butter, plus extra melted butter for basting as needed
3/4 cup finely chopped onions
2 Tbs minced garlic
1/2 cup minced Serrano ham
1/2 cup dry-cured chopped chorizo sausage
1/4 cup chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, or a combination of these
1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper, or as needed
2 Tbs grated Manchego or Parmesan (optional)

Remove the stems from the mushrooms & chop them finely. Reserve the caps and 1 to 1 1/3 cups of the chopped stems separately.

Heat 6 Tbs of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat & brown the mushroom caps, about 8 minutes, turning halfway through. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a small saute pan over medium heat & cook the onions until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic & mushroom stems & cook until the stems have wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the ham & chorizo & cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Stir in the herbs & breadcrumbs. Season to taste with 1/8 tsp of pepper. Remember that the ham will give off more salt as it heats.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Oil or butter a 13 x 9 x 2 inch baking dish & bake in a preheated oven for 15 minutes, or until golden brown, basting with a little melted butter, if desired. Sprinkle each cap with 1/4 tsp of grated cheese, if using. Serve hot or warm.

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THIS WEEK'S QUESO Y VINO WINE PICKS :
Queso y Vino, your mobile wine shop complete with a traveling expert Iberian sommelier (that's me!) is at your service. Hope you jump on the board to sample these tasty cellar selections & affordable wines... Personally selected "Omakase" cases built around your palate, desires, & budget are my specialty.

I offer a 10% discount on whole or mixed cases, free delivery for orders over $150, smaller orders will be conveniently & gladly delivered to you for the nominal fee of $10. Ask me if you'd like to arrange a free pick up at the Saturday University Farmer's Market or the West Seattle Farmer's Market Sunday!

Morande Pionero Pinot Noir 2008, Casablanca Valley $7.99
No you're not seeing things, there is great pinot out there for eight bucks... You just have to look to Chile! Pionero is made in homage to Pablo Morande, a pioneering spirit who helped establish the Casablanca Valley as one of the best wine regions in Chile. 20 years ago, Pablo visited California's Napa & Carneros Valley, then returned home with a quest and a dream to build a winery. Central Chile has a similar climate to that of Napa, & Pablo began his search for just the right valley. Pionero has a classic Pinot nose of strawberries & mellow bramble fruit, & sprightly bright and light attitude. This is a delight with crushed autumn leaves & spices that perk up on the tip of your tongue. Absolutely perfect for upcoming holiday parties!

Bodegas Volver Paso a Paso Verdejo 2007, La Mancha $8.99 (reg. $11.99)
It's becoming a challenge to find great Verdejo for under $10, but Bodegas Volver has delivered the goods. My guess is geography has something to do with it, because this comes straight from La Mancha *not* Rueda, and the land there is much more affordable. No matter, I'm just glad it's here! This smart little number pleases with meyer lemon zest, bright pithy swirls of citrus, guava, and a grassy finish. Think, crab, oysters, or a claypot Morrocan chicken with lemon & olives.

Bodegas Volver Paso a Paso Tempranillo 2006, La Mancha $8.99 (reg. $11.99)
Whoa nellie... If you like first class new world wines but can't afford their prices, Paso a Paso is here to save the day. This souped-up Tempranillo comes from the best region of La Mancha, with sandy soils & underlying large river rocks which intensifies the 40-year-old vines. Smoky blackberries can't be held back, then comes dark chocolate and an outstanding creaminess. Super juicy jammy, textured and toasty, Paso a Paso steps forward with a mouthful of charcoal & candied fruit. My co-taster on this exclaimed, "This tastes like Washington Syrah!" That ain't a Walla Walla price tag, that's for sure!

El Ganador Malbec 2006, Mendoza $8.99
This is a "winner" indeed! This estate in Argentina's Lujan de Cuyo is actually owned by a Spanish family from the region of Navarra... The low yielding vineyards are based at 1000 meters above sea level & are graced with the snow-capped Andes in the background. With a lovely liqueur-like nose of creme de cassis & perfumed violets, Ganador struts its stuff with blueberry juice, soil tones, plus dark chocolate shavings. This has just the right amount of Argentinian intensity, but I think you could slurp this up with or without a steak on your plate. Put this on your house wine list...

Louis Perdrier Rose Sparkling Brut, Beaune $9.99
I love cooking with a glass of bubbly in hand, & this pink sparkler is just the ticket. Andre Boisseaux bought his estate in the heart of the Beaune in 1941 & has been producing outstanding wine since. His brut rose is full of red currants & July watermelon freshness, plus a terrific minerality & a squirt of citrus. At this price, you can celebrate with a glass of sparkling wine everyday! A grand choice for your holiday open house or New Year's Eve party...

Hacienda del Plata Zagal Malbec 2007, Mendoza $9.99
How is it that Argentina can offer us such classy wines for a song? Yes, this ten dollar powerhouse even comes lovingly wrapped in paper as if it was a $50 bottle. This Hacienda has long been famous in Mendoza for providing refuge to travelling gauchos and soldiers who were making their way across the mountains, and the family later decided to plant vineyards. Their philosophy is to extend the same hospitality to everyone who drinks a glass of their wine... This is a huge wine for the money with sultry smoky cassis & licorice sticks. Ash & marionberries linger after a hit from the ultra-spicy nose, and the finish is long as the day is short. Do you like a wine with some muscle? This "boy" has it. And for this, you *do* need the steak, or maybe a roast lamb...

CATHERINE'S SUPERSTAR SELECTIONS!

Teofilo Reyes Crianza 2004, Ribera del Duero $29.99
According to Robert Parker, "By most accounts, Teofilo Reyes is the most legendary winemaker in Ribera del Duero." This comes as no surprise as Reyes made his first wine in 1950 at the young age of 28, and went on to become the winemaker for famed bodega Pesquera from 1974 to 1993, and finally went off to form his own winery in '94. And I'm partial to graduated renegades these days, okay? This has the nose of an absolute textbook Ribera del Duero with truffles & musk, black cherries & cedar chest nostalgia. Terrific upswing of acid, a wonderful surge of cherry & strawberry fruit on the mid-palate--this is velvety yet a gritty force to be reckoned with. Drink now or age for at least another ten years!

Barros 1963 Tawny Port, $300.00
There are days when I really REALLY love my job... And this past Monday I got to wrap my lips around this EXCEPTIONAL port. 1963 was a sensational year in the Douro Valley & I can't think of tastier proof. This is all mmmmmm, with golden & dark raisins, toffee & luscious flavors. Loved the earthy old barrel spices and the feisty finish that defies age. Absolutely beautiful in every way.This has the *perfect* balance of sweetness--one of the most perfect ports I've ever tasted!!!

Copyright 2008, Queso y Vino

December 15, 2008 | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino Enews Dec.4th: Barrio-Inspired Bacon Tacos, Dinner at Taberna, & Tres Picos is Back!

Well, have you all recovered from your food comas? This week has certainly catapulted me off the couch after I appeared on the front page of the Seattle Times' business section the day after Thanksgiving--Queso y Vino has arrived in style!!! Let's see, we woke early on Friday with a Christmas-morning excitement, & Ken sped off in his truck to pick up the paper at Skyway's 7-Eleven (the most bustling business on the hilltop), then grabbed himself an Americano at Nevzhat's Espresso Stand (no Starbucks in Skyway nosirree.) And wow, was it worth waking up early because my cell started ringing & the emails came pouring in from curious folks, & long lost friends. So if this is your first Queso y Vino newsletter, welcome!

It's a little challenging at first to describe the grass-roots virtual wine store I run out of the workshop under our casa... My philosophy goes against the traditional online wine site where people look at a list, click a shopping cart, enter their credit card information, the order is filled & shipped anonymously--the end. What's the fun in that?

I *love* my customers, & personal interaction is an integral part of the process. Does an electronic shopping cart have a vested interest in selecting wines that you will love back? I don't think so. Besides, as my research has found, those kinds of bells & whistles are expensivo on a website, & my goal is to give you personal service & expertise, great prices, minus unnecessary overhead. I could come up with a list of every Spanish, Portuguese, & South American wine on the planet available in the Seattle, but I'd rather you have the opportunity to read about thoughtfully-chosen suggestions & highly allocated wines I've scooped up (definitely a focus of this week's enews) that I think you should grab while they're around. I am working on a separate wine-focused Queso y Vino blog that will archive my newsletter offerings for your convenience... Have patience & I will serve you well.

So read on, & if for whatever crazy reason you don't feel like ordering a case (or a few inspiring bottles) of wine this week, jot down your favorites & keep a wish list going until you get to the $150 free delivery finish line. I'm not a point-monger by heart, but some new vintages of tried & true favorites have rolled into town & I made sure to buy up the puny allocations available. As I sit enjoying a perfectly lovely glass of ridiculously *cheap* Carmenere from Chile after attending the soft opening of Barrio (enticing details below in the recipe of the week), I think I can actually afford to buy a few of these special bottles for my myself!

Besitos,
Catherine Reynolds
Presidenta, Queso y Vino, 206-518-1166, quesoyvino@gmail.com

PS- More tasty stories, travel tips, photos, & recipes from this food-obsessed gal are available on my blog Madeleine at www.madeleine.typepad.com
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UPCOMING EVENTS! An Ultra-Intimate Fireside Tasting Dinner at Taberna del Alabadero, December 19th

Save the date! Queso y Vino will be hosting a very special wine dinner at the brand new Seattle location of Taberna del Alabadero on Friday, December 19th. If you're not familiar, Taberna in Washington, DC was designated as the "best Spanish restaurant outside of Spain" by the Spanish government, & has received acclaim from Gourmet & the New York Times as one of the best restaurants, period, in the US.

There's been quite a buzz about the opening (Taberna will take over the former Cascadia space in Belltown), & I am tickled pink to be offered their private dining room, complete with a cozy fireplace, overlooking the entire restaurant. For this tasting dinner, we will be featuring the portfolio of Aurelio Cabestrero who made his way as one of Spain's most heralded sommeliers to becoming one of the most exciting new Spanish importers in the states. This seven-course pre-Christmas feast is a mere $60 (plus tax & tip), which includes a tasting of eight Spanish wine selections, & we should be pulling the cork on some great values as well as some very high end selections to show off. A little more than a dozen seats are available, so email or call me pronto! if you'd like a seat at the table. This should be one heck of a dinner.
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CRISPY BLACK BEAN-BACON TACOS WITH TANGY ROMAINE SALAD from Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen by Rick Bayless
Being one to never turn down a good party, I was elated to break away from my keyboard & test-drive the menu last night at Purple Cafe's new Mexican showpiece, Barrio, in Capitol Hill. When we arrived, the luminescent dining room (lit by hundreds of glowing votives) was filled with festive spirit. With a two page menu that starts at nearly a dozen $4 taco options & maxes out at $16 for spice-rubbed lamb chops atop a creamy, comforting, posole-inspired hominy, it was hard to decide what to choose but easy to keep refilling our table with the next round of flavors.

Barrio opens to the public Friday, so even though it's December, don't miss the sea scallop or Veracruz octopus ceviche, anything with their homemade tortillas (you can watch the wooden press at work from their open kitchen), & start off with a puckery chapala cocktail--it goes with everything...

Makes 12 tacos, serving 4 to 6 as a hefty snack or simple meal

6 slices bacon
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups seasoned, cooked black beans (either canned or homemade), drained of most of their cooking liquid
2 to 3 pickled jalapenos or canned chipotle chiles en adobo, stemmed, seeded & finely chopped
A sprinkling of salt
Vegetable oil to a depth of 1/2 inch for frying
12 very thin factory-made tortillas
2/3 cup crumbled Mexican queso fresco or pressed, salted farmer's cheese
6 good-size romaine leaves
1 1/2 Tbs cider vinegar
1 large tomato, cored & chopped into 1/4-inch dice

The beans. In a large (10- to 12-inch heavy skillet, lay out the bacon & fry over medium heat, turning when browned underneath, until thoroughly crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate. Pour off all but a thin coating of drippings.

Add the onion to the pan & cook, stirring regularly, until deep golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the beans, then coarsely mash with a bean or potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon. Crumble the bacon & add half of it to the beans along with the chiles; stir over the heat until quite thick, about 5 minutes. Taste & season with salt. Cool.

The taquitos. Clean the skillet, pour in the oil & heat over medium-high. When hot, one by one, quick-fry the tortillas for several seconds to soften, then remove them with tongs & pat thoroughly dry on paper towels. Stack the blotted tortillas together, & remove the oil from the heat.

Spoon 2 Tbs of the black-bean mixture down the center of each tortilla, sprinkle each with about 1/2 Tbs of the cheese, & roll up. Cover with plastic wrap.

Finishing the dish. Return the oil to between medium & medium-high heat, you should have at least 1/4 inch of it in your skillet. Slice the romaine crosswise into 3/8-inch ribbons & toss with the vinegar & a little salt.

When the oil is very hot (it shouldn't be smoking; 375 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer is just right), fry the taquitos 4 at a time, being sure to lay them into the hot oil flap-side down. When crispy underneath, about 2 minutes, flip them over & fry on the other side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Remove from the oil with tongs or a slotted spatula, drain on paper towels & tip them to ensure no oil is inside. Keep warm in a low oven until all are fried.

Spread the lettuce on top a serving platter (or divide it between individual plates) & top with the taquitos. Spoon the chopped tomato down he center of the tacos, sprinkle with the remaining cheese & bacon & carry the whole assembly to the table
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Quinta da Espiga Tinto 2006, Estremadura $9.99

Wines from Estremadura may be some of the best values from all of Portugal, & Espiga fits that bill. This very old quinta was brought into the 21st century by Jose Luis Santos Lima & I am loving his passion for making modern wines with traditional grapes. Right off the bat there's lush creme de cassis/blackberry cream notions running through my head with a juiciness that makes this slightly sweet but peppered with mild spices. Low tannins & soft pillow-like fruit make this a real crowd-pleaser--a top choice for everyday drinking in the Portuguese category.

Legado Munoz Grenache 2006, Castilla $9.99
Oh Grenache, how I love thee... Another stellar Garnacha to stock up on, this one hails from just south of Madrid rather than from the usual suspects up north. This is that old-fashioned style of Spanish wine that speaks to the classics. The Munoz family purchased a 17th century subterranean cellar which they are restoring to age their wines, & yields are kept significantly lower than other producers in the region. The aromas run the gamut of baking spices, blueberries and figs, & the body cuts a svelte figure. Munoz delivers raisin & date dried fruit appeal with a spicy anise structure, along with smoky strawberries, tobacco & finely groomed tannins. It's easy to see why this has taken off so quickly!

Can Blau 2007, Montsant $15.99
Can Blau represents the modern side of Montsant & this is always a tremendously popular wine year in & year out. Por que? For $15, Can Blau dishes up a mouthful of liqueur-like berries that rivals the inkiest of expensive Priorats.
"(a blend of carinena, syrah and garnacha) Dark purple. Sexy aromas of blackberry, blueberry, Asian spices and smoked meat. Supple and open-knit, with sweet dark berry preserve flavors, velvety texture and good mineral bite. Manages to be both nervy and concentrated, with very good finishing clarity and cut. Leaves strong blue fruit notes behind and repeats the spicy quality." -91 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2007, Campo de Borja $15.99 Limited!
Borsao consistently produces wines that are both highly rated & pocket friendly & Tres Picos is no exception. Unfortunately, word is out & this is now an allocated wine that cruises at rocket speed out of the distributor's warehouse. 100% mountain-grown old vine Grenache, this has a lavish framboise nose entwined with a smokey perfume in harmony with boysenberry spark & charred vanilla bean. An annual favorite!

"Inky ruby. Highly complex bouquet of cherry, dark berry liqueur, iron, tobacco and dried flowers; reminded me a wine from Graves. Tangy cherry and cassis flavors are on the primal side initially but soften and gain sweetness with air. Fine tannins add grip to the long, spicy finish, which repeats the iron note. This is very promising." -90+(?) points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

CATHERINE'S SUPERSTAR SELECTIONS!
A new Spanish container hit town this week & I was quick to jump on new vintages of spectacular wines that "wow" year after year. Many of these are highly allocated, so let me know if I can set some bottles aside for you before they disappear!

Naia Des 2006, Rueda $23.99 (reg. $26.99)
This is an exotic bird... Verdejo ensconced in sultry oak. A fascinating Spanish white that can be consumed with abandon now, or put down to rest in your cellar for next Christmas (or the next!)
"100% barrel-fermented verdejo. Exotically perfumed, expressive bouquet of pear, white peach and melon, with toasted nuts and anise adding complexity. Dry and focused on the palate, displaying bitter fruit skin, lime and herb flavors. This was initially a bit clenched but fleshed out with air, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering citrus and pear flavors. These vines are reportedly between 80 and 100 years of age." -91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Casa Castillo Syrah Valtosca 2006, Jumilla $25.99
Syrah from the south of Spain is a growing phenomena, & who better to try it from than the picturesque estate of Casa Castillo. I've walked through Castillo's vineyards & can testify that these vines have been put through the wringer & all the stress and strain produces magnificent wines. If only I had been lucky enough to stay there overnight instead of a fleabag hotel in town...
"(96% syrah and 4% viognier) Glass-staining purple. Textbook syrah on the nose: blackberry, blueberry, dried violet, graphite and cracked pepper. Shows brighter black raspberry and cherry flavors on the palate, with fine-grained tannins lending firmness. A bitter chocolate note arrives on the finish to add depth to the sweet berry fruit. This is already complex." -91 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bodegas Alto Moncayo Veraton 2006, Campo de Borja $23.99 12 bottles available!
The wines of Alto Moncayo need little introduction... Full-throttle grenache made by Aussie superstar Chris Ringland, these deliver the goods when you're ready to be seduced by a pleasure bomb of unstoppable fruit.
"(100% garnacha) Saturated ruby. Very spicy on the nose, which displays blackberry, blueberry, white pepper and cinnamon qualities. Sappy dark berry flavors combine intensity with depth, picking up candied licorice with air. Turns sweeter on the finish, which leaves an exotic floral note behind. This went through multiple changes in the glass and is utterly delicious now."
-91 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bodegas Alto Moncayo Alto Moncayo 2006, Campo de Borja $42.00 12 bottles available!
Ditto!
"(100% garnacha) Deep ruby with a bright rim. Impressively complex, seductive bouquet of dark berry preserves, tobacco, graphite and smoky Indian spices. Pliant black raspberry and candied cherry flavors are enlivened by zesty minerals and firmed by fine-grained tannins. An exotic floral pastille quality emerges with air and carries into the finish, which is strikingly sweet, lively and persistent. I can't believe that this wine bears the touch of the same guy who is partially responsible for inflicting Australia's R wines on us." -93 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Vinedos Alonso del Yerro Maria 2006, Ribera del Duero $65.00 Very limited!
Newcomer Alonso del Yerro scores high in the power-packed Ribera category, in fact critics advised waiting a full 5-7 years before even popping the cork on the 2005 Maria. Reviewer Jay Miller, thinks otherwise...
"Glass-staining purple. Powerful boysenberry and mulberry aromas are complicated by smoked meat and minerals. A sexy vanilla note gains volume with air and carries onto the palate, joining sweet dark berry and candied cherry flavors. Becomes brighter on the finish, which leaves sweet black raspberry and candied floral qualities behind. This is delicious right now." -93 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bodegas Alto Moncayo Aquilon 2006, Campo de Borja $140.00 Very limited!
The ultimate rack crusher! The usual drinking window for Acquilon spans a course of 20 years, if you can wait that long... This would make a whopper of a wine lover's Christmas gift.
"(100% garnacha) Glass-staining ruby. Finely etched raspberry, blackberry, floral and mineral aromas expand in the glass while retaining impressive clarity. Silky and sweet, with pinot-like red berry and cherry flavors, a seamless texture and a big jolt of smoky minerals on the back. Balances racy precision with great flavor impact, picking up Asian spices and candied rose with air. The very long finish repeats the red fruit and floral qualities with conviction. If only the current set of Australian wines from consulting winemaker Chris Ringland had even half the clarity and elegance of these." -94 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Copyright 2008, Queso y Vino

December 06, 2008 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino is Officially Open for Business!

The big moment has arrived! After months of planning, dreaming & waiting, I finally received the go ahead from the Liquor Board to open the doors (more like the trunk of my car!) for my new business, Queso y Vino. WHOO HOO!

After graduating from the Spanish Table last spring after six years as their Wine Manager, I knew that I needed to find a way to put my passion to use, selling the wines that I love, but in my own special way.

I've always dreamed of my own gourmet shop, but in crunching the numbers for opening a brick & mortar shop coupled with a troubled time for traditional retail establishments, I summoned up my creative juices (I'm originally a poet by trade) & decided to think outside the box. And so, the idea for Queso y Vino was born!

While listening to NPR business blurbs can scare the bejeebers out of any new small business owner, I know in my heart that people don't want to give up the enjoyment that wine brings them, they just want better values for their money & that's what I've specialized in for years because of my area of expertise. Folks have always been floored by the values that abound in places like Spain & South America, but as a value consumer myself, I've collected quite a list of wines from other parts of the world that really float my boat for the money.

So I have dedicated myself to the pursuit of truth, happiness, & finding great wines for under $15 bucks. A pretty good gig! That's what Queso y Vino is all about...

How does this all work?

I have a weekly e-newsletter that divulges all my new wine finds & favorites, complete with bargains, some worthwhile splurges, up-coming events, & a mouth-watering recipe for you to try out at home. Sign up by emailing yours truly at quesoyvino@gmail.com No sharing, no spam. Promise!
Anything that piques your interest is deliverable & doable within a week's turn-around in the Greater Seattle Metropolitan area. Orders over $150 are good to go, smaller trial selections & special deliveries will include a nominal $10 delivery fee. How convenient is that! Want wine shipped? Let's talk! We can probably make it happen.
Come to a Queso y Vino wine dinner--incredible chefs, copious pours, the list just keeps on growing---get on board! I am amazed by how quickly our wine dinners have been selling out, but then again, my goal has been to keep fantastic foodie experiences at reasonable prices & give me a legal tasting room! Dinners have thus far ranged from $35 to $60 bucks, wine included (now where are you going to find that?) After all my years in the foodie business, I've been privileged to befriend many of Seattle's top chefs, no lie. Their enthusiasm to pair up with me on private dinners has me pinching myself. Again, sign up for the newsletter at quesoyvino@gmail.com and check your inbox frequently!
Arrange a private wine tasting at your table--if you would like a personal tour through my stomping grounds, talk to me... I'm always up for meeting with enthusiastic wine lovers who truly enjoy being educated, without airs.

Will be compiling a much bigger list of wine that are near & dear to my heart, but here is a list of recent fave's from my newsletter! Glad to be of service & please let me know if I can enlighten your holidays with these wines...

Happy holidays to all, & to all, a goodnight glass of Garnacha or Tempranillo in hand,
Catherine "Caterina" Reynolds, Presidenta, Queso y Vino

CATHERINE'S QUESO Y VINO HAND-PICKS~

CAVA:

Montsarra Brut Cava, $14.99
This has to be one of my favorite affordable sparkling wines from anywhere in the world. Por que? Maybe it's the abundant golden apple & bright citrusy aromas with hazelnut & spice cake flavors. Then there's the deliciously toasty & fresh pear notes, a body that's round, creamy, & crisp with frothy bubbles that reminds me of expensive Champagne. There's even a hint of jasmine pearls. I'm ready to celebrate!

Gramona Gran Cuvee Cava 2004, $21.99
Gramona is one of the last hold-outs for cava producers that are still family run rather than operated by large companies, & my favorite cava for special occasions. A traditional blend of Xarello & Macabeo with the rare addition of Chardonnay, I love the exceptional elegance of this sparkling wine from Spain. Honey & beeswax aromatics float above golden apple fruit & macaroon notes--but let's talk about the bubbles, shall we? Very fine with an extremely crisp mineral side, this does become the creamy, toasty style I crave as it opens in the glass. Fantastic value, really.

WHITES:

Marques de Toldeo Verdejo, La Mancha $7.99
One more thing to love about La Mancha--they give us Manchego cheese & this deal of a Verdejo to go with it! Verdejo usually hails from the northern region of Rueda which fetches a higher price, but in La Mancha, land is cheap & home to many of the best values in Spain. I tasted this on a day where about 100 wines passed my lips--and this little number got a mighty big star when I saw the price. Classic Verdejo lemon drop flavor with a soft & slightly salty finish. It's oyster season, & this quaffer would love to come join you for appetizers...

Gramona Gessami 2007, Penedes $17.99
This spectacularly elegant white is one of my favorite discoveries from Penedes. Unlike a splashy citrus-wrapped Rueda, or the big-boned Albarino's from the coast that I usually gravitate towards, Gessami (made from Sauvignon Blanc/Muscat d'Alexandria/Muscat de Fontignac) is a delicate departure with poetic notions. Bergamot, rose & cherry blossom underpinnings delight the senses along with tropical starfruit, tangerine peel, but quartz minerals leave you with a lively mouthfeel that is crisp as fresh linens. "Gessami" originates from the Hebrew word for jasmine--a wine as exotic as the flower itself. You'll be sad when your glass is empty, or at least I was!

REDS:

Terra Andina Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Chile $7.99 (reg. $8.99)

Terra Andina Carmenere 2007, Chile $7.99 (reg. $8.99)

Terra Andina Merlot 2007, Chile $7.99 (reg. $8.99)

Need something to serve a crowd of thirsty revelers? These wines are a sweet deal for the money & to introduce them to you I'm taking a buck off so you can try all three to compare! I tasted their Cab, Carmenere & Merlot at a spring tasting & have been anxiously waiting for the opportunity to stock up on them. My notes from the tasting were brief, so I will give you the winery's direct tasting notes to whet your appetite. I really enjoyed them all, especially for the price!

Cabernet: "Aroma: Intense with a sweet first touch. Reminds blackcurrant and plums mingled harmoniously with graphite and toasted coffee flavours.
Palate: Structured and concentrated. It has a soft texture with firm and rounded tannins which give a very long aftertaste."
Carmernere: "Aroma: Tasty blend of black currant, blackberry, grilled red pepper and black pepper, those flavors carry over to the palate.
Palate: With a very varietal character, this wine shows balance with volume and soft but present tannins and a pleasant aftertaste."
Merlot: "Aroma: Very ripe fruit like plums and blackcurrant flavors complemented by black pepper and grilled red pepper. With sweet spice flavors.
Palate: The texture is smooth, rich and well balanced. Pleasing aftertaste."

Gouguenheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Mendoza ARG $9.99

"Get out of town!" I thought when I tasted Gouguenheim's Cab. "There's no WAY this wine could be ten bucks!!!" First of all, if you brought this to someone's house for dinner, the bottle & the label will have people thinking that this cost at least $20. Patricio Gouguenheim and a secret Argentinian super-star have teamed up their talents & what a great thing that is. Smoke & violet notes highlight the nose, with savory flavors & velvety tannins that sets this apart from other Cabs at this cost. From high up in the mountains, but grounded in the earth with spearmint & freshly plucked marionberry/huckleberry juiciness. Expressive & impressive for the price!

Vina Alarba Old Vines Grenache 2006, Calatyud $9.99
Don't you want to walk right into their fairytale label? Calatayud is a wonderland of old vine Grenache at ridiculous prices. Vina Alarba has earned its following over the years, & it continues to rock the house whenever I host a wine dinner. No oak keeps things fresh & vibrant with earthy strawberries, sugar plums and a blueberry pie appeal, all from vines 50 to 70-yrs-old. Ripe but dusted with spices (I caught bit of curry leaves, myself) this is my kind of everyday wine. Whisk yourself away to Aragon tonight & coo

Quo Grenache 2007, Campo de Borja $9.99
I love this wine. How is it that Grenache from Spain can keep getting better & better? Florencio Lopez-Navarro of Quality Wines of Spain has outdone himself in sourcing out this wonderful new value. I was enamored instantly by the nose of rosy currants, kirsch & white pepper, & the fresh supple body makes this the perfect transition into autumn wines. Herbal essence & a soft ripeness makes this extremely versatile & hard to stop sipping. I will definitely be putting a bunch of Quo in our little cellar because I can afford to open it any dang night of the week.

Merum Monastrell 2006, Jumilla $9.99
Here's a handsome new Jumilla to celebrate! Winemaker Juan Jiminez makes this custom cuvee for Quality Wines of Spain here in the states, but at a very Jumilla-like price. This is actually a blend of 85% Monastrell, 10% Syrah (a new introduction to the area), & 10% Tempranillo to round things out. Dark as a star-less Andalucian night with mocha, dusty earth notes, & concentrated black cherry liqueur... Merum's alive with a fleshy, supple attitude that's peppered with spices, and a dark chocolate shavings/anise finish. Too bad for Spain--they don't get any, it all comes to us!

Ercavio Tempranillo 2007, Toledo $11.99
More than just a tourist destination, Toledo is beginning to export some fantastic wines. The local varietal Cencibel is a clone of Tempranillo with an earthier dark-fruited feel that had me crowing. Fermented partially in traditional tinajas, clay vessels dating back to 1851, Ercavio speaks the language of coriander, soil, black currants & basil. Loved the melted chocolate essence of this vintage & this is always a fave when I've poured it. This would go hand & hand with a wooden plate of garlicky chorizo & a sultry flamenca by your side. Ole!
-90 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Bodegas San Prudencio Cueto 2007, Rioja $9.99
A Rioja for $10, get out! The price of Rioja's (along with everything else) has been steadily rising so it was indeed a pleasure to have this Tempranillo come into my life. Wunderkind Ruben Saenz completed enology studies & became a consultant at several wineries in the Rioja before even hitting the age of thirty. His boundless energy shows, & the importer says that during harvest, Ruben is out in the vineyards well into the night to inspect his grapes by moonlight! Ruben selected vineyard sources in Montelaturce, the highest growing region in the Rioja, & the long hang-time makes this joven extra-special. Dark majestic black plum hue but with Tempranillo translucence, Cueto shines through the clouds with blackberry & wild plum fruit. Ripe & approachable, silky & supple with a smattering of black & white peppercorns, this blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, & Mazuelo is the ticket to putting Rioja's back on the bargain table!

Monte dos Cabacos 2002, Ribatejo $10.99 (reg. $11.99)
As many of you know, this has long been one of my favorite Portuguese wines & the value is astounding. It first entered the market as a $20 wine & the price tag has dropped because the distributor simply bought too much! (Found out this week they took all of this vintage while the the winery was being renovated...)

Local distributor/importer Vinum Wine discovered this wine while they were dining in Sao Rosas, a classic restaurant in Estremoz--turned out it was the "house wine" made by owner Margarida Cabaco. When they found out it didn't have a US distributor they jumped at the opportunity. A modern blend of Syrah, Cab, Touriga Nacional & Aragones, you can't hold a candle to Cabacos' densely purple opaque hue that makes you feel like you're going to high dive into blueberries! All the plush dark raspberries, blueberries & blackberry fruit reminded me of a very attractive Monastrell or Syrah with a definite elegance as its matured--gravel pit earthiness accompanied by a creme de cassis ending. Exotic as it sounds & extremely delicious. This is a LOT of wine for your money.

Quinta das Maias Tinto 2004, Dao $10.99
One thing that I love about wine is that there is always something new to be learned. My happiest recent discovery is that the Portuguese varietal Jaen has been declared to be a direct relation of Mencia, one of my absolute favorite Spanish grapes. Geographically this makes a lot of sense as pilgrims would have had no trouble bringing cuttings from the mountains of Bierzo in northwest Spain into the northern mountains of Portugal. And as usual, underdog Portugal can offer us stellar values as the wines of Bierzo continue to go up, up, up!! This blend of Jaen, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, & Tinta Roriz has an exotic nose that lured me right in with perfumed French oak nuances... But what really stood out for me can be expressed in one word: elegance. Supple with spice box notes, savory plum & dry cassis, Maias has taken the rustic reputation of the Dao & put it to bed. Looking for a refined "cellar-protector"? Put this at the top of your list.

Vinos de Terrunos Siete7 2007, Navarra $13.99
A new favorite from Navarra, Siete is a juice-laden pleasure wine. Vinos de Terrunos is a project of importer Jose "Pepe" Pastor & famed winemakers from throughout Spain who have crafted these custom cuvees for our enjoyment. All of the Terrunos wines are organically farmed which is something to cheer about... No oak on this one, Siete's savory berry combo bounces from the glass with floral twinings, and just a touch of sweet tobacco. 80% Grenache with 20% Tempranillo provides pure & succulent fruit with a slightly textured grit, & the gentle tannins make this a versatile food fit. (I rhymed!) Definitely a departure from the dusty Navarra wines that I've come to know--a view into the future of this little-exported region.

Ogier Caves des Papes Les Truffiers 2005, Vacqueyras $14.99
Okay, so you don't really think that I live in some Iberian bubble & just drink Spanish wine, do you? I love wine from everywhere, but ironically, I've been prejudiced about Vacqueyras wines. Shame on me! I actually just attended a tasting of 98/99 Rhone Villages wines & I found my usual dislikes emerging in my notes. But I say, "I do" to Truffiers' plump yet silky cassis, that liqueur-like element I revere in Grenache-Mourvedre-Syrah based wines, and am always willing to cross the border for that wild card of brambly fruits off the vine & meatiness this region is known for. Darn it, my last sip was gone before I knew it, so enjoyable was the Truffiers. Good French stuff for fifteen bucks? Love it.

Luna Beberide 2007, Bierzo $14.99
What took you so long? For years, I've read about the wines of Luna Beberide, & now I finally have had a chance to taste what everyone's been talking about. Wines from the mountainous region of Bierzo are certainly no longer a secret, & winemaker Alejandro Luna was wise to return from Madrid to partake in the Bierzo Renaissance at his family's winery in Villafranca. Wines here are made with old-fashioned tender loving care--the grapes are hand-picked, no pesticides are used, & the wines are aged in "a big rambling house of the XVI century". Hopefully I'll see it for myself someday! Made from 100% Mencia, this entry-level wine from Beberide is light on the wallet & heavy on charm. The enchanting bouquet of crushed wildflowers, mineral & graphite lured me into the glass, with lucent boysenberry & spiced blueberry in waiting. This is unfiltered & unoaked so the fruit is left unobscured, and the finish definitely promises potential for enjoying this for years to come. If you are a Chinon-lover, jump right on the Bierzo band wagon!

Teofilo Reyes Tamiz 2006, Ribera del Duero $17.99
According to Robert Parker, "By most accounts, Teofilo Reyes is the most legendary winemaker in Ribera del Duero." This comes as no surprise as Reyes made his first wine in 1950 at the young age of 28, and went on to become the winemaker for famed bodega Pesquera from 1974 to 1993, and finally went off to form his own winery in '94. And I'm partial to graduated renegades these days, okay?

This is a brand new (& I must say, an swirly artistic label that definitely shocked me when I saw it--you go, Teo!) wine that brings Bodegas Reyes well into the 21st century. 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged 7 months in American oak, Tamiz offers a sweet shop of tootsie roll, brownie & black cherry aromas to sink your nose into. Cedar & framboise oo la la, fine spices with good strong shoulders. I would be diggin' this with some mole braised short ribs, oh yes I would.

DESSERT:
Quinta de la Rosa Tawny Port, $13.99

Never have I tasted this much quality in a port this price. I've not been wild about many of the basic blended tawnies you can find out there, but boy was I surprised by this one. Quinta de la Rosa is a tiny operation where bottling is done at the estate with vigorous control. This tawny is proof of the pudding. Orange marmalade, hazelnuts, pecan pie, orange zest & white pepper--delicious!! Extremely well-balanced, this outshines any other port in its league.

Broadbent 'Lot 1 Auction Reserve Port', Porto 375 ml/ $12.99, 750 ml $24.99
This is a PLEASURE to drink. While I usually reserve such enthusiasm for single vintage ports, this one (bottled by Niepoort) seduced me into believing that yes Virginia, great blended ruby ports do exist. On the tongue, you'll find cherries & boysenberries dipped in milk chocolate, pot au creme & a caramel/custardy richness. It's as if you dipped into a box of cordials–the sweet fruit hooks you & then a rich caramel/vanilla sensation glides down your tongue. The flavors make you want to sip it slowly, but the delicious nature of this port is hard to resist.

November 28, 2008 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Queso y Vino's Gaudi Dinner! Save Room for Paella...

Okay, this picture exemplifies everything I love about my new business... For years I've looked to hook people up with new food & wine discoveries, & now through my Queso y Vino dinners, I also have the pleasure of bringing incredible people together & showing off the talents of some of my favorite Seattle chefs. Ole!

Some friends begin as strangers at the beginning of the evening, but by the end of a few rounds of bunelos de bacalao (sinful salt cod fritters) & Manzanilla sherry, I daresay that everyone seems like kindred spirits.

My last Queso y Vino dinner took place at Gaudi, which is actually where the wine dinners began back when I was at Spanish Table. My old boss didn't like my idea of hosting private events, but people raved about what a wonderful evening they had & each preceding dinner would sell out even faster...

When I left Spanish Table last spring, I spoke with Jo & Joan Luna, owners of Gaudi, and they were more than happy to continue pairing up together. Thank goodness, because I don't think I could live without Joan's heavenly airy shrimp croquetas (who knew fried food could seem so light?) & his over-the-top papas bravas covered in a divinely creamy blanket of garlicky goodness. I swear this man is the master of these two dishes--his croquetas beat the pants off any version I've ever had. As usual, Joan kept the tapas coming until everyone cried uncle...

My husband, Ken, & I have come to feel at home in this old world-style taberna near Ravenna, and it's fun to have a chance to get behind the bar for a night. We circle the restaurant, looking for empty glasses, pouring wine & telling stories, and once in a while we sneak off into the kitchen to grab a hot fritter with guilty grins on our faces.

It's fun to watch the Lunas work together, & even funnier to think that when they lived in Barcelona they owned a restaurant that served American grub, like gumbo. In fact, Joan shocked the owners of the (now-defunct) Wellington in Columbia City by auditioning for a position as their chef when he first arrived in Seattle. "What does a Spaniard know about cooking soul food?!" they chuckled. But he got the job...

So ironically, when they moved here, they set their sights on opening a Spanish restaurant. Personally, I am glad that Joan decided to dish up his paella rather than brew batches of jambalaya because Seattle needed a homespun Spanish restaurant that serves classic unfussy dishes, & I applaud the Lunas for the simple fact that I feel like I'm in Spain when I eat there. It's good solid food, made with love, & a lot of hard work. In fact, when do these two ever take a break???

While all the guests are gathering up their coats & paying their checks, Joan actually makes an entire second meal for us & the restaurant staff which is served Spanish-style at about 11 pm. From the first time we sat down together like this, I felt that I had become initiated into a new family, & now it is the moment I look forward to all night. Happy customers & a job well done celebrated over a table of fine food. What more could one ask? Like I said, I'm really digging my new business.

It's called doing what I love.

If you would like to come to one of the upcoming Queso y Vino dinners, sign up for my newsletter by emailing me, Catherine Reynolds, at quesoyvino@gmail.com

Would love to have you join us next time!

Gaudi Spanish Restaurant
3410 NE 55th Street Seattle WA 98105 206.527-3400

November 11, 2008 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)

Travel with a Translator Part II: Pal-Do World is Korean Fried Chicken Paradise

Hmmm, how to start this blog... Here, chicky, chicky!

Is it a story about how I came to love Korean food or my relationship with fried chicken?

Let's start with the fried chicken part because up until last weekend, I can't say that I would ever drive out of my way for it.

When my husband & I bought our house in Skyway, we celebrated our first night amongst the unpacked boxes with a bottle of good pink champagne & a bucket of Ezell's chicken, which was now available to us right around the corner. It seemed the perfect metaphor for our new life.

Both were small luxuries after the many tight months of scrimping & saving depression era-style, trying to spend the smallest amount of money possible by eating solely from what we already had in our freezer & pantry or the broken bags of paella rice or expired jars of who-knows-what I came home with from Spanish Table, just so we could keep expanding our savings & qualify for a loan on a place of our own. We did it, & I will never forget the taste of that night.

As for Korean food, it ties in with a story of the heart as well. For four years I dated a Korean-Mexican musician & his family (that's the way it works), & while our cards didn't play out, I spent many an evening over a table filled with the splendors of banchan, learning the in's & out's of what constitutes great kimchee, bibimbap, and glistening plates of chop chae. My biggest regret is that I was a vegetarian at the time, so while my clothes were permeated with the tempting smell of kalbi & bulgolgi frying up on the stove, I never actually partook in these finger-licking forays until a ways after we split up...

So fast-forward to the present me, who is down with trying almost anything (food-wise) at least once, & a lunch date with one of my favorite foodie friends, Kye. We had set aside a Thursday afternoon to walk around Greenlake & grab a bite to eat before my business class, & both of us had been going through a preliminary list of places we might like to hit afterward. What would it be... Ramen? Tortas? Vietnamese Bun? But as we came round the bend, the latter choices didn't seem to jive with the daily fickleness of my appetite, but the gray skies looming overhead presented a culinary craving knowing we were so close to Shoreline.

"Would you be up for Korean?" I asked hesitantly. (I never like to make people play tour-guide of their native cuisines unless they volunteer for the job.) The suggestion made Kye's face light up in an instant. "You like Korean food?!" she beamed, & so we raced for our cars with keys in hand, jumped onto 99, & hungrily met up in the parking lot of Hae-Nam Kalbi & Calamari.

Even though we had just missed the lunch menu cut-off, Kye soon had the staff eating out of her hand--barley tea flowed & a generous spread of banchan bowls soon overwhelmed our grill table. At this point, you might be asking, "What about the frickin' Korean fried chicken???"

Okay, I'll get to that, but how about a whelk noodle salad that I learned had Nancy Leson of the Seattle Times a-cooing? And true to the name of the restaurant, our plate of kalbi (marinated sweet & savory short ribs) excelled, negating every caloric-burned step we had taken the hour before. Thank goodness talking about food doesn't add to the waist-line, or we really would have been in trouble!

And so one of my favorite kind of meals commenced--my expert guide pointed to her favorites & I gladly ate up whatever appeared before me. I eventually showed up at the Community Capitol Development Center, very late, & very much smelling like a gargantuan bulb of garlic as I later realized, setting off perfumed bursts of air amongst my more salient comments in class.

One week later, we set out on another "elastic-pant" date (this time with our husbands & blogger friends Dawn & Eric, in tow) to meet at Pal-Do World, the Uwajimiya of Korean food, bearing further north on the compass in Lynnwood. Pal-Do World is the kind of place I can wander from aisle-to-aisle endlessly in a slow motion dream sequence, ogling everything from the exotic crustaceans frozen in time, rainbows of sliced sashimi in the fish case, marbled meats that want to leap into your frying pan, & fiery pepper pastes (oh, I'm a sucker for condiments) up the yin yang. I tried to focus on the fact that we were here first for lunch, not shopping, and Ken had to use persuasive stall tactics to tear me away from stocking up on irresistible additions to our ever-growing ethnic pantry.

Eric & Dawn were running a little late, so Kye took us on over to the Pal-Do food court, where Chicky Pub lives in all its "My Little Pony" color-scheme glory, to get our order underway. "They take a while to make it," our leader explained, & after reading the New York Times article on Korean fried chicken, I now know why. The whole secret behind the technique is double-dipping--the chicken is fried not once, but twice for 10 minutes with a resting period in between which insures a lighter crisper crust than the American version. I mean can you imagine KFC devoting twenty-something minutes lovingly cooking your bucket of chicken? I don't think so. And while Chicky Pub does not in fact seem to serve beer, you can order a lunch-time latte!

We decided to sit next door at the Cho Dang Tofu Restaurant (the owners are connected so they're fine with sharing customers) so we could sample from their menu as well. The place was packed with families, & the six of us crushed in together at a couple of small tables in the back. I will warn you that all of Pal-Do World is about as warm as a meat locker, with the restaurant being of a marginally higher temperature, so wear your leg warmers!

Another tip for creating body heat is to order one of Cho Dang's soft tofu soups--the beefy chili-rich broth is wonderful spooned over rice amongst intermittent bites ofbanchan to cleanse the palate. We also went for a family-sized squid & vegetable stir fry & more kalbi--both were solid dishes, although not nearly notable as the soothing silkiness of their soondubu.

And while we played Chinese Checkers with all our dishes, Kye dashed through the aisles to pick up a special treat--Korean blood sausage--which is steamed, then sliced on-site, & comes with a bag of spiced salt for dipping. Wow. I can't say I ever would have imagined eating blood sausage with chopsticks! Soondae is much milder, less fatty, & I daresay almost fluffy as it contains a large proportion of glassy sweet potato noodles. Kye loves these meaty morsels so much that she got a second order to go for snacking on later... Well, I guess they kind of look like brownies in this shot, but we still had to make room for dessert.

How about finishing things off with some fish waffles? No silly, they're not waffles filled with fish, but with sweet bean paste. Each little swimmer is made to order, so we headed back over to the frozen foods to watch the archaic waffle press go to work. My picture did not turn out so well, so I refer you to the Wright's blog as perhaps my shivering made the shot a bit blurry. And while I grabbed my camera to capture our hot batch of bungeoppang, five hungry hands beat me to the punch!

But the star of the show for me was of course, the transformative chicken. I loved every last bit of the sticky sweet gingery sauce & found myself eating leftovers cold out of the ice box. What's happened to me?

Each piece was well-glazed but not soggy in the least, the chicken tender and perfectly cooked, & I'm already thinking of excuses to go back to Lynnwood of all places and try out the even spicier version. The fact is that when split the bill for all this ridiculously good food, each couple chipped in $15. That's right, $7.50 a person. And that is one winning argument as to why you should spend a Sunday afternoon in a beer-less pub in a giant freezer in a strip mall. I'll be the gal in the corner licking her fingers with a big sloppy grin...

Pal-Do World

Chicky Pub

Cho Dang Tofu Restaurant

17424 Highway 99
Lynnwood, WA 98037
(425) 742-2237

November 05, 2008 in Foodie Reviews & News | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)

Travel with a Translator: Chiang's Gourmet

As a family of two, (actually three, but our little black cat Eek doesn't do dining reviews) it's often tough to order the way I'd like at most Asian restaurants. Which is to say you start with one or two well-loved dishes that can't be passed up (your litmus test so-to-speak), then delve into the unknown with regional delicacies & intriguing menu entries with often comically translated descriptions like "Dried Durnip" or "Spicy Beaf on Roman Lettuce".

Ken has an innate ability to almost always pick the dish I wish I'd ordered in any restaurant--perhaps because of his journey through chefdom--but he usually points out that if a place has say, "Terikayi & Tempura" painted in bold letters on the window... Well, that's probably what you should focus on. You'd think I'd catch on, but what's the fun in sticking with the basics? Me, I like to pull the wild card which sometimes results in disaster at which point I bat my eyelashes & ask to share my husband's wisely chosen bowl of curry or dan dan noodles.

But last weekend we had a rare treat--not only did we have two dates on the calendar to go out for a family-style meal, but both were arranged by a "native eater" which means that you get the royal treatment & a culinary tour through hidden gems on the menu!

So our adventures began with a Mandalay reunion at Chiang's Gourmet, a surreally 50's diner meets spaceship landmark in Lake City... For those of you not in the know, the Mandalay Cafe was that sweet bungalow in Wallingford (now the home of Tilth) where my husband & the gang cooked up some of the best pan-Asian fare in Seattle (they consistently kicked Wild Ginger's butt in the Zagat!)

Former owners, Janny Mathias & Erik McWilliams (that's Erik, and that's not Janny to his left) were in town to cast their ballot (they now live on Vancouver Island up in serene Sooke, BC) & Janny managed to bring together a nostalgic round table of friends & family from the Mandalay days.

Janny hails from Taiwan, so she took charge of the ordering & soon we had a table full of curious Taiwanese breakfast items such as bowls of sweet soy milk & round rice dumplings wrapped around shredded meat, sugar, dried seaweed & fried Chinese doughnuts. Wow! That brings a whole new meaning to sweet & savory. I'd been warned that Chiang's is likely to slip westerners an entirely different menu, so I was psyched to be getting the real deal.

Although nearly empty when we arrived, shortly after noon families & large groups began to pour in... You might just want to have something in your belly before you arrive for breakfast because tables seemed to turn very slowwwly, & some of our dishes would randomly arrive 30 minutes later, long after we'd forgotten we'd ordered them, & some didn't come at all. And that's with a translator.

But don't let me scare you off--despite its quirks, I am anxious to return, delving even deeper into Chiang's "authentic" menu (I might not be quite ready for Pig Intestine, Bloodcake, Sour Vegetable, Odor Tofu w/Hot Sauce In Hot Pot), & was especially thrilled to hear that there is a Chiang's outpost closer to home in Renton as well.

Now it's my turn to round up a group of friends, because I'll walk in already committed to re-ordering the "Owner's Pick": house-made noodles with ground pork, diced dried bean curd, & fresh cucumbers in a bean paste sauce, but I'm pretty intrigued by items such as "Chicken w/Ground Green Beans Sheets". Could be another one of my disastrous stabs at finding greatness in the unknown, but that's why there's safety in numbers.

Get ready to share your safe-bet Shanghai noodles, hubby, & pass the jelly fish!

Chiang's Gourmet
7845 Lake City Wy NE, Seattle 206.527.8888
17650 140th Ave SE, Renton 425.235.8877

October 28, 2008 in Foodie Reviews & News | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBack (0)

Going Whole Hog: Croatian Pig Roast on Bainbridge Island

The day started out quite innocently as we drove along the country roads of Bainbridge Island, fawning over the brilliant tapestry of autumn foliage we've been blessed with this year. Usually the rain has pummeled the leaves off the trees by now leaving us with a few weeks of lukewarm color before the gray settles in, but this fall has been a sweet reward for suffering through a December-like finish to August (with thunderstorms & hail to boot.)

"Now that's a picture!" I shouted as we whizzed past Bainbridge Island Vineyard & turned back around to get a closer glimpse through the vines framing a huge pumpkin patch at neighboring Suyematsu Farm, one of the few remaining plots on the island farmed by a Japanese-American (Akio Suyematsu), after 220 citizens of Japanese descent were rounded up from the island's berry farms and interned in California's Mojave Desert during World War II.

But that's a tale I'll leave to "Snow Falling Over Cedars"--this story centers around one very big Bainbridge pig.

Kate & Larry are some of the wonderful customers-turned friends that I met in my days at the Spanish Table & when I saw an evite show up in my inbox for a Croatian pig roast, I frankly had to clear the calendar.

Kate's family is Andalucian, & I've been taunted for years hearing about the incredible paella feasts she's assembled for friends on the island, but her husband Larry has eastern European blood & slivovitz running through his veins--a grappa-like substance that was to be served to the guests (even though we were warned about that could wipe the make-up off of Tammy Faye in an instant.)

Did I mention the party started at 3:00 pm? But after enjoying a leisurely lunch of dim sum with friends & bloggers Dawn & Eric Wright of Wright Eats & Traca Savadago of Seattle Tall Poppy at Jumbo Chinese, my stomach was properly coated with grease to handle the job. A foodie's work is never done!

While I'm accustomed to the lavish spreads that my mother's family put out on special occasions & holidays, walking into a Croatian fete left me wide-eyed at the complete study in contrast--a plated mosaic of roasted peppers, a bowl of fresh cabbage salad replacing long-pickled sauerkraut, & whorls of dough baked in what looked to be one of my Portuguese paella pans. Who knew that eastern European food could be so vibrantly Mediterranean? Perhaps a trip to the Dalmatian coast is overdue.

I pride myself on attempting to throw down some complex recipes at home, but all I can say is Geez Louise! When I see that someone has created borek (a gorgeous pastry layered with feta) from their own HOMEMADE PHYLLO??? Well that takes the cake, Kate. Or maybe this does...

Ken's homemade Makovnjaca (poppyseed roll with raisins & rum) which was our assigned dish for the feast. Little did I know when I emailed Kate back & said, "Do I qualify for anadvanced recipe for the party?" that she would require me busting out the Kitchen Aid & measuring spoons. A baking assignment? Good lord, that takes precision & more patience than I have on a Saturday morning.

Enter my husband, an angel & a trooper, who cracked eggs shells & ground spices while I rounded up a dozen corn-husked bundles of deliciousness at Villa Victoria's tamale sale. Not only did Ken brilliantly succeed in his mission, but now he risks having to ship off a log to my mother-in-law in Utah every Christmas now that his talent has been exposed.

Let me warn you, even when buying poppy seeds in bulk, this caviar-like spice is pricey & making the Makovnjaca took over three hours. If you're not a baker & you live in Seattle, you might just head to George's Delicatessen on Madison by Swedish Hospital for a ready-made treat. But when if your hosts are spit-roasting a whole pig--umm--you should make it by hand, right??

I'll let the rest of the story play itself out in pictures, but many thanks to Kate & Larry for inviting us out for this incredible spread, & welcoming us into a fold of NW-islanders & Greek friends, alike. There's nothing sadder than having to leaving a party to catch a ferry while a group of revellers are gathered under heat lamps with a bottle of slivovitch being passed around. Zivjeli!!!

October 21, 2008 in Epicurean Recreation: Madeleine's Travel Files | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)

Salud! The First Official "Queso y Vino" Dinner

Since striking off on my own from the Spanish Table late last March, life has been a series of limitless choices to make about my future... The dream of opening up my own gourmet shop has loomed large in my psyche--one not limited to just Iberia but my love of exotic cuisines, cheeses, & hard to find staples that I search out for my own pantry--after six years of describing how to make the perfect paella day in & day out at the Pike Place Market. At times I felt a bit like a guide at the Grand Canyon (or perhaps the Museo del Jamon) especially during tourist season.

"That's our 200 person carbon steel pan," and I would proudly point to a mammoth paellera hung from the ceiling. One guy actually replied, "Well that could fry a lotta bacon!"

One tradition I've kept from my Span Tab days is the wine dinner series that started as a friendly collaboration between me & Gaudi Spanish Restaurant, a super-sweet tapas spot tucked up in Seattle's Bryant neighborhood. And now that I've formed my own company, Queso y Vino, I'm hoping to try hosting monthly gatherings around town with some of the exciting chefs that I have met through my years in the food & wine community.

So what better way to launch than with a Festival of Chiles celebrating the rich culinary traditions of Mexico with my friend, chef Naomi Andrade Smith of Villa Victoria!

I met Naomi years ago at the Pike Place Market, where this tour-de-force in taxi cab-yellow glasses & a pink straw hat would bustle through with a tangible energy, looking for Afro-Portuguese music & a wine recommendation. Little did I know that these visits were probably the few spare moments of her day when she ran a legendary tamale take-out window nestled up in Madrona where the likes of Jonathan Sundstrom would come to for a taste of Naomi's soulful cuisine.

Her cooking reminds me of the magical realism of "Like Water for Chocolate", where passion collides in the kitchen with a rich lineage taken from her Mexican mother who climbed avocado trees in Michoacan & the romance that bloomed with her adventuresome father, an African-American descendant of slaves who was part Oklahoma Chickasaw. And folks, once you taste her food & hear her stories, you fall spellbound...

So a few weeks ago I gathered fifty hungry foodies together at the Washington Wine Co. to get a taste of regional Mexican flavor on a rainy night. While it was a little chilly amongst the freshly racked barrels, things quickly heated up as we began to pour my pairing selections from Spain, Portugal & South America. Watching the dishes come out one by one, it was truly torturous knowing I would have to wait until *after* the dinner to try everything out!

Visually, Naomi's unique take on Chiles en Nogada (poblano chiles stuffed with a chicken picadillo & lavished with a walnut & cream puree) stole the show, the chipotle-rubbed pork ribs with jalapeno glaze left Ken & me fighting over our prized leftovers for days, people were commenting that the flan was the best they'd ever had, but the dish I will be dreaming about was the banana leaf wrapped tamales filled with a chanterelle/pecan mole & made with Wooly Pig's Mangalitza lard. Oh my god. These coated your mouth like the best meat butter in the world!

A big thanks to all who drove out to Woodinville to kick things off for Queso y Vino!!! If you would like to a crack at signing up for my next dinner at Gaudi on Tuesday, October 28th, or future events, you can sign up for the Queso y Vino newsletter at quesoyvino@gmail.com.

I'd love to have you on board.

As for chef Naomi, she tragically had to close her Villa Victoria take out window in Columbia City this month as the location, location, location factor didn't pan out. BUT, the unstoppable Ms. Andrade Smith will be focusing on her catering business for now, creating weekly menus for pick up (I can't wait to get more of that salsa!) & dreaming of a sit down restaurant where her talents can shine. Our fair city of Seattle doesn't have too many fabulous Mexican options outside of taco trucks and her cooking goes waaaay beyond burritos. You go girl--your fans are waiting!! Help me bug Naomi to get back in the kitchen by emailing her at info@villavictoria.net. She needs our support--and we need her tamales.

October 13, 2008 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Goat Cheese & Blue Grass, Oh Boy! Harvest Celebration 2008

Oh, how I love an Indian summer! And while I was skeptical about seeing a day of sunshine again after the typical Northwest drizzliness sunk in this past week, I was elated to be out in the fields for the Harvest Celebration Farm Tour under clear blue skies.

Growing up in upstate New York, I have a soft spot for warm September days where the colors start to turn, when corn is at its sweetest, & the smell of cider donuts frying up is the ultimate Proustian madeleine. Give me a hot paper bag of these bite-sized autumnal treats shaken with cinnamon & sugar and I am a kid in New England again.

"We're going to live our five-year-old dreams," Ken told his mother on the phone as our truck ambled out to the Snohomish Valley. "No, not dreams we've had for five years," he explained. "You know, dreams that five-year-olds have. Petting zoos, corn mazes, hay bale rides..." to which I gave him a sharp jab with my elbow. Honestly, I wish I could've borrowed my three adorable nephews who live back in the New York to take on the farm tour, but I don't know that they would have been as giddy as I was to drive 30 miles to get a free lesson in goat milking.

When I read that Fall City Farms was giving cider making demonstrations, I held my breath (could there be cider donuts here in Washington?? we grow lots of apples) & marked it as the first stop on our list. BINGO! So while Ken rounded up some golden beets & butternut squash from their country store, I stood in line for a taste of childhood.

Turns out the real action at Fall City is in the "u pick" garden & families of tattooed Seattle hipsters, locavores, and valley folk waded through the tangled greens with pitch forks & baskets, harvesting missile-sized zucchini or rotund root vegetables straight from the earth. "You can't get fresher than this!" beamed one farm-goer, & I couldn't agree more.

Next on the list was a visit down the road to River Valley Cheese... In late spring, I had been in contact with cheesemaker Julie Steil about working one of her farmer's market booths before I knew I was going to be hired (& subsequently fired) by Bella Cosa. I've always respected Julie's cheeses, and while perhaps being on the farm adds something extra to the flavor, I was truly taken with where her cheeses are going. Julie's mom & kids were on hand to pass out samples (I'm assuming the cheesemaker was busy trying to keep with the demand), & by the time we finished voting on our favorites, I had a sampler of four different varieties safely tucked aside to take home as things were quickly selling out to the crowd at their tasting tent.

My recommendations? Naughty Nellie, a semi-soft raw cow's milk cheese with a pleasant hoppiness, thanks to the Pike Brewery ale-washed rind, BoVino, a creamier version of Drunken Goat only made with raw cow's milk soaked in local cabernet wine, fresh mozzarella (made one hour before--how can you resist that?), and my personal favorite, the Ranch Reserve, a perfectly rustic goat cheese (surprisingly pasteurized) brushed with honey dark rum that had all the personality of a French cave-aged cheese, & went exceptionally well with the Sauvignon Blanc we had chillin' in the fridge when we got home from our journey.

And while Ken had fun taking pictures of me getting a lesson in goat milking with the cute farmhands, I think I'll leave that up to your imagination, lest you decide that raw milk cheeses are not for you. Here's the poor goat that put up with me... Sorry, gal, it was my first try!

The day would not have been complete without a stop at Full Circle Farm in Carnation, folks that have really made their mark on Seattle's culinary community, working hard to connect the consumer & the chef with the land. In the tradition of Berkeley's Chez Panisse, restaurants such Lark started the trend here of crediting local growers on their menus, & a dish with Full Circle's name attached to it has always a sure stamp of quality and exceptional flavor. Go to any of our neighborhood farmer's markets & Full Circle's booth is packed with luscious greens, crayola orange carrots and a knowledgeable staff member who clearly loves their veggies.

The farm is as gorgeous as their produce, & has grown to nearly 300 acres since the original five acreage purchase by husband & wife team Andrew Stout & Wendy Munroe. True do-gooders, the farm has donated over 200,00 pounds of produce to food banks, schools & daycares, & participates in innovate programs like fueling kids' brains with fruit instead of junk food during WASL testing. Smart thinking!

As bluegrass musicians plucked away, we gathered around to watch chef Seth Caswell (formerly of Stumbling Goat & soon-to-be Emmer) sautee up lobster mushrooms with fennel & sun-sweet cherry tomatoes in a creative combination. Inspired by our few forkfuls, we took our over-sized canvas bag to the vegetable stand to load up on the harvest--a beautiful head of escarole, two curly-q eggplant (a miracle that they can grow on the eastern side of the mountains), & outrageously fragrant poblano peppers for stuffing with fresh corn & goat cheese. We ended up with so many treasures from the farms that I had to cancel our Sunday night reservation at Poppy as I couldn't bear the food-guilt & let it all wilt in our produce drawer. Oh well, another time.

Right now, nothing's more precious than these gifts from the late September sun...

Fall City Farms

3636 Neal Rd SE, Fall City WA

River Valley Cheese

34920 SE Fall-City Snoqualmie Rd, Fall City WA

Full Circle Farm

31904 NE 8th St, Carnation, WA

Get out of the city, it's good for ya!

September 30, 2008 in Epicurean Recreation: Madeleine's Travel Files | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBack (0)

In Memorium: Elvira Wojteczko, My Gram

Lately people have been asking me, so how did you come to love food... As a person who's pretty obsessed with all things culinary, I had to scratch my head & think, so how did this all start? I was a picky eater as a kid, my most requested birthday dinner was Kraft macaroni & cheese and hot dogs, I wouldn't even touch a lobster on all our vacations to Maine (what a shame), and then there was my vegetarian phase.

But all while, even if I shunned the turkey at Thanksgiving or the honey ham at Easter, I made sure my plate was full of pierogi's, the traditional Polish dumplings I looked forward to all year on special occasions, I dove into the kraut with abandon, and made sure to save some room for apricot kolaczkis for dessert. And that is where my gram comes in... She loved her family so much, & her generosity was endless, just like the dishes on her table which always overflowed with food whenever we all got together. Even when I boycotted pork, she'd look at my plate & say, "No kielbasa??? But you LOVE kielbasa!" & I'd guiltily fork a link onto it.

My family moved to Schenectady when I was five, so while everyone else stayed in the Chicago area, we made a couple of pilgrimages a year to River Forest in the old wood-paneled station wagon, & later, flying into O'Hare, and I would look forward to entering the land of Bob's Big Boy along the road & Bill Knapp's where I could get my fix for chicken fried steak. But once we arrived in Chicago, Polish food was my soul food. And while my grandmother stopped making her own pierogi after my Busia (great grandmother) died, she sure knew where to find the best.

My mother speaks with reverance when she mentions their secret spot, known simply as "The Hole in the Wall". Apparently, she & my gram would show up to this place where there was no store front, only a hallway & a door, & when you rang the bell someone would appear, dart back in, & then deliver the goods like a pierogi gangster. I guess they weren't so secret, because when I finally begged to come along, "THITW" had become Old World Pierogi's (now Alexandra's) a shiny operation with a full-on menu & a line of customers on N. Central Ave. I loved everything about these excursions, they taught me the joy of entering a butcher shop where the air was thick with garlic, or the rich buttery aromas wafting from a family bakery where we'd pick up a round of bobka & boxes of cookies, and the pleasure of piling into the car with your hidden treasures.

And so food became the fastest way to find our way back home, to connect all the days apart after living so many miles away. I often envied my cousins who got to spend so much time with my grandparents, sleeping over the garage at their tudor house, & opening up the drawers on the nightstand where my grandfather would hide Cracker Jack toys for us on our visits. Later in life, when my grandparents sold the family home & moved into an assisted living facility, I would visit & cook up a storm for them to give them a break from the cafeteria--one time I almost set off the sprinklers trying to fry up some store bought pierogi's for them, but they ate every last burnt one & laughed.

My grandmother has always said that I remind her of her mother, who was apparently an amazing cook with a lovely smile & thick brown curly hair. "She could even make a pigeon taste good," my gram would say. Now that's quite a compliment.

I love you gram! I'll miss you! And I'll never turn down a plate of kielbasa again, I promise.

Your loving granddaughter,

Catherine

September 17, 2008 in Remembrance of Things Past: Tasty Stories & Essays | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Seattle Stay-cation South of the Border-Style: White Center Awaits!

"Why don't you just move to Mexico, already?" my stay-cationing husband huffed after I laid out my hand-scrawled map of spicy street stalls to hit a few glorious Monday's ago, postponing once again his domestic dream of refinishing the deck. My rule is this: "Cloudy day, clean away. Sun's up, it time for taco trucks!"

If I had an athletic bone in my body, maybe I'd aspire to be a surfer, cash in on our digs in Skyway & live in a turquoise color casita Frida Kahlo-style & ride the waves, day in & day out. But in this life, my sport is sniffing out exotic flavors around some back alley, and on this particular outing I earned a gold.

Part of the pleasure of these peripheral excursions is who decides to play Magellan with you, & since my bro-in-law David (a serial adventurist to Spanish-speaking countries & third world destinations) was in town for a family wedding, I seized the day to follow up on some leads to graze at La Fondita Dos in White Center before herding us to the beach.

And while the plan of course was to temporarily satiate our hunger so we could keep pushing off to new ports--I fault the charming senorita who heard us discussing our menu options & shouted out "eveerytheeng is goood!" from her leetle window. And when David ordered a combo plate (dude!) before heading over to secure some roasted corn at a stand with a big plastic scorpion dangling behind the counter, I knew we weren't going anywhere soon.

I've been a faithful fan of Taqueria Los Potrillos on Rainier for years... They're close to my 'hood, & I think make the damn best juicy tacos pastor, but my husband is a carnitas man. While slow-cooked shredded meat is still out for me because of some weird textural aversion I've had since I was a kid, you can count me out at the judge's table.

Ken's recent favorite had been the braised pork at El Asadero down the hill from us in Renton, situated in the parking lot of Marilyn's produce where we do much of our bargain shopping for limes, chiles, cilantro & the like. But La Fondita's apparently takes the cake in this category, unanimously seconded by my Chowhound friend, "zoogrrl" who raved in spades went I sent her sailing off to this Bermuda triangle of White Center.

Now I've made my way around Mexico a few times, once by bus from Bisbee, AZ to Zipolite (can't say I'd recommend it unless you like having your feet swell so big you can't get your sandals back on) but for some reason I've never partaken in the street stalls that hawk roasted corn, even if a whole square full of folks is chomping down on a cob at the fiesta del dia. Lord, what have I been waiting for?

And who can resist a plastic scorpion. Not I! So while our food was being grilled up a few steps away, I watched a huge mango carved into the shape of a rosette get a few finishing douses of chile salt with wide eyes... Sometimes these trips really make you feel like you've gone to another country. I mean even the smell of this little parking lot brought back a flood of memories, & I couldn't wait to get a big ol' stick of corn into my hot little hand. Not just corn, you see. Corn, as our roaster explained it, smeared with a layer of Kraft mayo, then butter (most likely margarine), a dousing of lime juice from a squeeze bottle, rolled up in "Parmesan" cheese ("Cotija?" I asked? "Si, cotija"), with a few more of those spicy chile shakes to boot. Whomever thought up this unlikely combination in history deserves a culinary genius grant.

As I walked across the hot asphalt, I passed another gringo whose eyes bugged out in the Fondita line... "Wow, those look GOOD. Are they good???" And off he scuttled across the lot like a large cucaracha on his way to visit the scorpion's lair. Just in time, since a middle-aged gringa with a bad dye-job was accosting our beloved lady of the window. "You know, TAH-KEE-TOES... You mean you don't have TAH-KEE-TOES?" Maybe you don't want people to find out these spots after all.

So with hearts & bellies full, I kissed our chance goodbye to check out another truck behind McClendon's Hardware and turned our sights toward Burien's Seahurst Park, where we spread out the picnic blanket, cracked open our respective summer novellas, glancing up at ferries traverse back & forth to Vashon as a beach hound miraculously floated about on a surfboard. For a moment in my surreal stressed-out "what the heck am I going to do next, world?"-- all was right-- the sun beaming down upon you, the delicious & undiscovered before you, like...

A chile cucumber popsicle at Salva-Mex.

In so far as my taco truck obsession fulfills a need for heart-felt Mexican cooking on an un-employed writer's budget, suggested pupusarias have been a let down until now. Cruise down Ambaum in Burien & the possibilities are endless for hole-in-the-wall taste experiments, but Salva-Mex with its window-shrine of Jesus, a goat in soccer garb, & a figurine of Elmo holding little blue shoes, (I kid you not) was like the equivalent of a walking into the kind of place I relish while on south of the border vacation--it's the local watering hole, & you just happened to stumble into it. Despite the fact that it seemed to be a faint-inducing hundred degrees inside, granmama's to babies bouncing-on-hips gathered for their comida, along with a few happy muchachos sipping horchata through their straws underneath an inflatable Pacifico bottle. That's good clean fun. You know if that the real experts are in there in the sweltering heat, paying for someone else's cooking, it's got to be good.

After navigating the photo album of a menu, David broke out his Spanish skills & ordered us a couple of rounds of pupusas (the famous fried street snack from El Salvador) filled with a mixture of loroco (an edible flower) y queso (cheese) y pipian (a Salvadoran squash). Our ebullient young host told us that he was from El Salvador himself, & while David chatted with him about their mutual travels, we heard the loud slapping sounds of fresh dough from the kitchen while occasionally one of the moon-faced senoras would pop her head out the window & smile mischievously at us, then dark braids would swing back into their secret masa world...

And while we took our order to go (we still wanted to take David' to our favorite Sichuan spot for dan dan noodles, you dig?), the smell of freshly griddled corn cakes & melted cheese wafting from the back seat was too much for us to bear. That's when you just park the car and dig in right on the hood of your Subaru, and man it would have been a shame if we had waited a minute longer. Piled high with our sides of curtido, the traditional spicy slaw, & doused with a dribbling of their ultra-mild salsa, we three gringos were grinning as wide as the cook's behinds. A thing of beauty. Indeed, it felt like one of those great summer road trips you talk about when the weather turns us all into home-bound hibernating Seattleites again. And that my friends, is worth a world of grumbles from a husband, a few gallons of gas, & a trip to the nearest Brown Bear car wash.

La Fondita #2

9811 15th Ave SW (between 100th St & 98th St)
Seattle, WA

(206) 551-0529

Salva-Mex

15019 Ambaum Blvd SW
(between 150th St & 151st St)
Burien, WA

(206) 988-1234

September 03, 2008 in Foodie Reviews & News | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Happy Birthday To Us, My Fellow Cancerians!

Hello to all my wonderful friends & foodie family!

They say it's your birthday... da, da, da, da, da... We're gonna have a good time... Hey, so guess who's birthday it is this week?

I kind of think of birthdays as a beginning of a new year, a fresh start, & with all the topsy turvy changes in the last twelve months, I am definitely curious to see what fate has in store for me... I suppose it all started when I traded in my life as an arts administrator & editor six summers ago to pursue my passion in food & wine, and ended up finding my true vocation!

Besides becoming a real cheesemonger (a dream come true), & your continued personal sommelier, I very much enjoy the private wine dinners that bring us all together in a moveable feast. Bella Cosa has just remodeled & expanded their dining area so we thought it fitting to throw a paella party with yours truly behind the butano. On Tuesday, July 29th at 7:30, join us for a festive tasting of wines from across Espana paired with our favorite summer Iberian dishes. As always, we like to keep these dinners casual, fun & educational and hope that you make some new friends over the course of the evening! Dinner & wine is a measly $35 a person (plus tax & tip)--to reserve your spot, please email back at quesoyvino@gmail.com or call Bella Cosa at 545-7375. Hope you can make it!

Besos,

Catherine Reynolds

CANNELLINI BEANS WITH COPPA, SPINACH & MUSTARD from The Kitchen Diaries by Nigel Slater
I read cookbooks like novels, but Nigel Slater's beautifully written "Kitchen Diaries" is reminiscent of Georges Perec's "Species of Spaces & Other Pieces" where one man put to paper everything he ingested in a year, only Nigel is a true culinary poet who catalogues not only the romance of seasonality & why we choose to eat what we eat, but how food connects us with every delectable moment life offers us. Quite frankly, if I ever get to writing a Madeleine cookbook, I would probably have to thank this guy in the acknowledgments for being an absolute inspiration...

Enough for 2 as a light lunch (or a summer dinner) with bread (& a little cheese is a nice touch!)

Dried cannellini beans--3/4 cup, soaked overnight in cold water (or 1 1/2 cups canned cannellini, washed & drained)
Small, tender spinach (or watercress) leaves--4 handfuls
Thinly sliced coppa or other cured meat--3 oz
Basil leaves, the thicker & more pungent the better--a loose handful
Extra-virgin olive oil--6 Tbs
Red wine vinegar--a generous Tbs
Smooth Dijon mustard--a generous Tbs
Fresh thyme leaves--a generous Tbs, chopped
Black olives--4 oz

Drain the beans, then cook them to tenderness in a large, deep pot of unslated boiling water. They will take anywhere from twenty-five to sixty minutes, depending on their age & size. They are read as soon as you can easily crush them between finger & thumb.
(Short cut--rinse canned beans under running water & reserve.)

Whilst the beans are cooking, mix the olive oil, vinegar & mustard with a fork in a small bowl, then whisk in the chopped thyme & some salt & pepper. The dressing will be thick & creamy. Pit the olives, dropping each one into the mustard dressing as you go (short-cut--use pitted kalamatas & mix in the canned beans at this point). When the beans are ready, drain & toss them with the dressing. Set aside for an hour or so for the flavors to marry. (A nice idea if you've got the time, be we just moved to the next step!)

When you are ready to eat, rinse the spinach in cold water & shake it dry, removing all but the the very finest stems. Put it in a large serving dish. Peel any shreds of skin from the outside of the coppa, then shred the meat into ribbons the width of thin matchsticks. Put them in with the spinach, separating the strips as you go. Tip the beans, olives & dressing over, fold the ingredients gently together then serve.

*Everything in bold can be found at Bella Cosa! Get a head start on your week's meal-planning when you come in for wines listed below...

THIS WEEK'S AFFORDABLE SUMMER WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

Vega Real Roble 2005, Ribera del Duero $8.99
Once in a while I stumble upon a new Ribera del Duero under $20 that floats my boat, but under $10??? The folks at Barbadillo have pulled off a miracle with this new estate. Vega Real delivers true Duero taste with classic lamb-loving musky notes, dark framboise & black cherries along with a sweet balsamic twist. In just a few minutes, the nose started to really develop which says a lot for a wine in this price range. Creamy with white pepper spice this is pretty easy-going, but gained earthiness with time. Vega Real will pair up with anything from paella to grilled sausage & peppers, which makes this exceptionally priced discovery a great house wine that should become a customer favorite in no time.

Novellum Chardonnay 2007, Cotes Catalanes $11.99
I am not usually the Chardonnay-loving type but this bottle absolutely changed everything!!! I tried this at our favorite Thai joint, Buddha Ruksa in West Seattle, & was amazed at how low the price was... While we paid twenty-something at dinner, now I can buy it for home at twelve bucks! Made by the fabulous French winemaker, Jean-Marc LaFage, Novellum is just as tasty as his estate red which we all adore. A custom cuvee for Eric Solomon, this Chard is passed over the lies of botrytised Viognier, giving it a luxurious nose of peaches, hazelnut & honeysuckle. Perfectly balanced, creamy & ultra-refreshing with a smart package to boot, your dinner guests will never guess the price!

Petit Bourgeois Pinot Noir Rose 2007, Vin de Pay Val de Loire $11.99
Ah, summer is really here & that means move over ketchup, mustard & condiments--a bottle of rose must be squeezed into our jam-packed fridge--it's time to celebrate the sun! I have long been a fan of wines from the Loire, so when I tasted this Pinot-based pink last week it was an instant love affair. From the famous village of Chavignol (known for their wonderfully chalky crottin), Henri Bourgeois has been making Sancerre for ten generations, expanding their vineyards from two hectares to fifty-five on some of the best slopes in the region. The Petit Bourgeois is super-small production (they don't even list it on their website) & a bargain in French rose's... Feisty strawberry & cherry essence on the nose but this is the lean & crisp style of rose that is right up my alley. The long long finish made me wonder how many bottles of this I could through in a summer? What to pair this with--well, goat cheese & a baguette of course! Very Francais indeed.

CHEESE OF THE WEEK: Brebirousse d'Argental
I love washed-rind cheeses, especially the kinds that slowly ooze onto the plate... Brebirousse is a delight in so many ways--for one it's 100% sheep milk which was a real surprise since this is so meltingly creamy & that's great news for those of you who can't consume cow's milk. The rind is speckled with annatto giving it an enticing orange & snow white color, but this is no stinker... Fresh cream with a lick of salt flakes is the best way to describe the flavor but it's the lush texture that really put this in my favorite category. Pair this with some proscuitto & melon and head straight for the beach for a picnic!

Looking for expert Spanish wine advice? Gourmet staples to stock the pantry? Melt in your mouth artisan charcuterie & intriguing hand-selected cheese? You can find me at Bella Cosa (1711 N. 45th, just west of the Wallingford Center) Tuesday through Saturday, from 11 am to 7 pm, five days a week. Please come by & say hello!

July 15, 2008 in Queso y Vino Enews | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Madeleine

"...the smell and taste of things remain poised a long time, like souls, ready to remind us, waiting and hoping for their moment.." Remembrance of Things Past, Marcel Proust

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